Tag Archives: Travel

Finding Freedom

Until I find a better home for this writing, it only feels natural to keep it here. But don’t forget to subscribe to my new newsletter via my new website, http://www.racheltavel.com (just scroll to the bottom to subscribe!).

Also, before you keep reading, I want to let you know that my writing here is stream-of-consciousness. I don’t edit it, and I honestly don’t even proofread it to keep it as authentic as possible. I write, then post. It’s fueled by coffee and a quiet moment in my day — just like my original TwT writing days. And I’m hoping to keep it as raw, unfiltered and authentic as I can for your enjoyment, and mine.

***

It’s a Friday morning in Berlin, and it’s been almost one-year since I moved to Germany. I don’t know if the year has gone quickly or slowly but it’s not an exaggeration to say that this move has been truly life changing.

When I became a mom during the pandemic, I began to feel stress in a way and on a level I never experienced before. I was pregnant, which made me feel vulnerable on its own, but combine that with the constant threat of an unknown deadly virus and living in one of its epicenters of contagion (NYC), it’s no wonder life as I knew it didn’t quite feel the same.

Medical bills, childcare costs, and — eventually — our landlords deciding to sell our precious home on the most beautiful street in Brooklyn were the tipping points. When, as a new mom, everything in my soul told me to stay still and nest, another part of my brain was constantly seeking safety and security — both of which I kept finding out no longer existed in the wonderful life I thought I had created for myself.

The pandemic really did change everything.

Or was it motherhood?

I found out I was pregnant the first week of March 2020, and the world shut down the second week of March 2020. So, for me, the two experiences are forever intertwined. I will never be able to separate one from the other, or compartmentalize which feelings were associated with which event.

But I do know this: the combination was lethal to the life I knew before March 2020.

When I married a German, I knew moving was always a possibility, but it was one I resisted for years. Until we had a kid. In NYC. And, as you can see, the rest is history.

So what was I hoping to get out of moving to Germany? What is it that I didn’t have in New York that would compel me to make such a drastic life decision to leave my beloved hometown and family and friends (and language) to live abroad in a city I had only spent a total of 10 days in?

And more importantly, did I find what I was looking for?

I spent so many months soul-searching before this move. What was it that felt so wrong about life at the time? Why did everything that once fit suddenly feel too tight, like my pre-baby clothes?

We were stretched so thin, masked and isolated. We were in crazy expensive city that I love so much, but unable to enjoy most of it. We — a physical therapist and writer married to a teacher — were making enough to live a nice life until we had a child. When the cost of childcare (almost $3,000/month) was added to our monthly bills, our lifestyle suddenly changed.

I felt suffocated by life. There was never enough time, sleep, or money to relax. The virus spiked and spiked again, two unexpected surgeries in one year led to extreme medical bills, and a move 45-minutes away, plus a new daycare 30 minutes in the opposite direction from my office, added a long daily commute that I never wanted.

My son, who I adore, went to bed later than most kids, which left me with about 30 minutes a day of “me” time. I was so completely burnt out that, even though I was making the most money I had ever made, I felt like I had the least to go around.

Something was clearly broken. And I, for the first time, was feeling like I was starting to break, too.

I’ve done a lot. I’ve taken on a ton of challenges (as many of you know!). I’ve traveled alone in Mexico. I’ve moved on a one-way ticket to Ecuador knowing nobody in the entire country. I’ve traveled to Japan and Turkey and Costa Rica on my own… Gone to grad school in my 30s. Taken pre-med accelerated physics courses at Harvard (Extension School).

I know the pain of a challenge! I know grit. I know how to feel uncomfortable. But this time, it was different. The balance of life was so off that I knew I needed a change. A big one this time.

I made lists. I remember when I was 21 and working at Travel + Leisure and Food & Wine magazines, I felt so awkward pretending that that was the life I wanted. The office was in Times Square, and every lunch hour I’d leave the building zipping from one midtown lunch spot to another just to try and find a place with a short line where I could get some food quickly. Everything just felt so chaotic and fake. I wore business casual clothes — blouses, kitten heels, pencil skirts. It was hard to move around, and I knew something about working a 9-5 in the magazine industry just didn’t fit the way I thought it would.

It would have been so much easier if it worked for me, but every cell in my body was just screaming NO. THIS IS NOT IT.

During those lunch hours I would keep a list. What little or big things in my day made me happy, and what little or big things felt “bad” or just didn’t feel right?

Happy: reading the travel and sports sections of the New York Times every morning, sunshine on my skin, my coworkers, being told I did a great job whenever I proofread or wrote the boss’ emails.
Bad: dressing up for work, spending all day at a desk, answering phones (man, I hated answering the damn office phones!), pretending I was anything but myself.

That list became longer and longer, and soon it became clear to me that when I left that corporate office job in NYC, I would never ever go back to one.

I wrote that list when I was 21, and it’s amazing how true to me the list still is. I’ve moved so many times (seven times in the first seven years after graduating, to be exact) that I lost the physical copy, but I have it imprinted in my mind, and even managed to stay true to it with this move.

As pressure from motherhood and the post-pandemic world began to build, I began a new list. This one was just a pros and cons list: New York vs Germany. And, unlike my original list written on a pad of paper with a blue pen, this one was saved as a Google Doc in my Google Drive. I added to it, examined it, and meditated on it for years…

Here’s a sampling:

New York Pros: being near family (the glaring #1, always), career opportunities, potential to make a lot of money and be super successful, English, friends, the safety of feeling close to home, less risky

New York Cons: cost of living, noise, chaos, unpredictability or living situation and medical costs, need for huge financial cushion, cost of childcare, hustle culture, competitiveness for everything, intensity is too high, complete lack of work-life balance, constant need to make more money and work more to have a good life, not enough family time

Germany Pros: better work-life balance, more time for family, lower cost of living, lower cost of healthcare and childcare (echem, free!), Auggie gets to learn German, dual citizenship in the EU (just in case), easier/safer/more secure to try freelancing, it’s freakin’ EUROPE!

Germany Cons: I don’t speak German (yet), far from mom (insert broken heart emoji) and family, potentially very isolating experience, homesickness, fewer career opportunities after I’ve worked so fucking hard to get here, lower salary, less independence (need my husband to help — not easy for a very independent lady), huge stresses and emotions associated with big international move

So what tipped the scale? What became so clear that I could no longer deny it?

One word: FREEDOM.

In New York City, I began to feel trapped. Money money money. That’s what life was all about. Make more, earn more, have more, then breathe. My salary may have gone up. My opportunities may have gone up (actually, they certainly were). But my wellbeing was going down.

I thought long and hard about what are some of the most important values in my life, and the word freedom kept coming up. Freedom to live. Freedom to go to restaurants if and when I wanted. Freedom to spend time with family. Freedom to travel. Freedom to work the way I wanted to work. Freedom to be the me I always wanted to be… or really more like the inevitability of being the me I couldn’t pretend NOT to be. As inconvenient as I am!

The writer. The traveler. The adventurer who values freedom over money (but also needs both to achieve it all). The ambitious constantly excited about life seeker who doesn’t want to be contained in someone else’s box of expectations. The homebody who also needs excitement and to feel constant stimulation from the world. Movement, travel, and small pleasures inspire me. I can work hard and fast, so office jobs never suited me.

I can get done in 4 hrs what someone does in an 8 hr day, so it tortured me to have to sit there anyway, even when the work was done. Or just get more work to fill the time. That life didn’t make sense to me. I wanted out of it.

I can say now, almost one year after this move, that balance has been restored. Nothing and nowhere is perfect, but my ability to sit here right now and write like I haven’t done in MONTHS is evidence of this.

Balance — time to to think, to be creative, to be inspired, and to write. This is a return to me. This is the space I have been seeking. Space to breathe, to get clarity, to dream again.

So have I found that here in Berlin? Yes. Yes, I have. But I didn’t get here without a fight.

As I return to my roots as Travels with Tavel, I am so looking forward to telling you more about this new life as Rachel in Berlin.

It feels so good to just write for pleasure again. Thank you for sticking with me.

4 Comments

Filed under Uncategorized

Canoa: Shakin’ It Down to Sea Level

OK, FINALLY, a moment to sit down and write!

I’m BACK from a fantastic long weekend in Canoa. Five friends and I arrived in Quito Monday morning at 430am. We took the overnight bus, and I’ve gotta say… I saw some of the best stars I’ve seen in years. While the entire bus of Ecuadorians and a few gringos slept, I watched out the window as we ascended from sea level to 9,400 feet through the Andes. Over the previous few days, I: visited the Ecuadorian coast, felt an earthquake, got stung by a jellyfish, wrestled a coworker on a dirt field, danced for hours with Ecuadorian surfers to salsa, reggaeton & merengue, went horseback riding on the beach barefoot, had a pina colada, played frisbee in the ocean, played soccer with Ecuadorian kids in the sand, & got kisses blown to me by a 3-year-old Ecuadorian boy in a Speedo. 🙂 The entire weekend was just what I needed.

I think I’ve been a bit of a Debby Downer towards Ecuador in the last few blog entries, but I’m ready to bring the mood back up a few notches. Let’s see, where to start?

Canoa La Magica. Photo by Chris H.

It all began with the earth shaking.

After dozing on and off during a seven-hour overnight bus ride down from almost 10,000 feet to sea level, we (Desiree, Clemence, Jen and I — more friends were meeting us in Canoa the next day) had arrived in Canoa a bit heavy-eyed and creaky, but ready for the beach. As soon as we got off the bus, we knew we had to buy our bus tickets for the ride home, which would be packed on a Sunday night after a long holiday weekend (happy Independence Day, Ecuador!).

Desiree (Portland, Oregon), Jen (Cork, Ireland), Clemence (Paris, France) and I waddled off the bus, over to this convenience store/ticket counter (meh, every store tends to blend together in this country). As we tried to get the attention of a very distracted and high-strung Ecuadorian woman, she began to scream. We were a little perplexed when she jumped out of her seat behind the counter mid-conversation, grabbed her kids, and ran out the open-air shop in hysterics. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t completely confused for a moment there. We thought someone had stolen something because she grabbed her kids and BOOKED it out of the little shack-like shop, which was held up with some weak-looking pillars.

That is when I realized the ground was moving. Now, after a seven hour overnight bus ride, an earthquake is not the first thing you expect. The whole shop, which was plastered wall-to-wall (“wall” being a loose term here) with bathing suits, sunscreen, plastic beach toys, snacks, and towels, began wobbling. I saw the three pillars holding the entire roof up moving like we were on a boat in the ocean. Something funny was going on. My friends and I instinctively ran out of the shop into the middle of the dirt road — the main street in town — where everyone else had just run out screaming and tried to figure out what the F was happening.

As I stood by our bus, which we had exited no more than five or ten minutes earlier, I felt the earth rolling underneath me like a wave. Precarious looking telephone polls were wobbling to my left, and I saw a wooden fence shaking to my right. Behind us was a decrepit building that consisted of blocks of concrete and large metal spears — probably the worst sort of thing to be near during an earthquake. We just stood there, a bit stunned, with our backpacks on and sight of the beach about 200 meters away… Was this seriously happening?!

Desiree, Jen, Clemence and I looked at each other, kind of laughing, kind of freaked out, and said almost simultaneously: “Was that  a fucking EARTHQUAKE?!” (As Irish Jen would say, “CHRIST IN TEARS!”) A couple after-shocks and some funny looks exchanged between fellow travelers later, we decided we could complete our ticket transaction, and walked to our hostel a bit thrown-off, literally. We had no access to the news, but later found out there had been a 6.9-magnitude earthquake over a hundred miles beneath the Amazon in Ecuador. CRAAAAZY.

When we found our hostel, all I can say is… we were underwhelmed. Now, we don’t ask for much. We don’t need much. But there is one thing we all require in a malaria/dengue-infested town where mosquitos completely take over each night: a bug net. For $10/night, we booked a room at Posada de Daniel, which has a lovely website and mentioned a pool, hammocks, bug nets, and comfortable rooms…

Well, when we walked in, we were saddened to find that we were basically going to be sleeping in a mosquito-infested barn, with one thin sheet on every bed (no blankets) and… grrr… no bug nets. The bathrooms were filthy, there were no toilet seats on the toilets, and there was not a mirror in the entire place (what if you have something in your teeth? what if you need it for applying sunscreen? what if you get something in your eye?!).

Canoa from a hostel. Photo by Jena (from http://jenainecuador.wordpress.com)

We wandered the sandy beach town in search of other accommodation options. Our first choice, Surf Shack, which was owned by an awesome American named Peter (who I may or may not have a little crush on) was booked. One lovely looking hostel promised us a room, so we walked all the way back to our shit-hole hostel to tell them we weren’t going to stay there, then walked back to our upgrade only to find it was a mistake and the room was not available. We probably wandered into seven different hostels before finding one, Bambu, which was became, by FAR, our first choice. Only, we had to wait two hours before we would know for sure if we could stay there.

Luckily, it worked out, but we would have to spend the first of three nights in the dirty barn. We sprayed bug spray over our beds and bodies like we were spray painting ourselves and didn’t want to miss a spot. That room was one big carcinogenic cloud of Deet, but damnit, we were going to make it through the night! We literally had a padlock to get into the room, and there was such a thick cloud of mosquitos at night that we had serious trouble unlocking it. Sadly, cracks in the wooden stall-like doors did not bode well for our rest, but it was time to give sleep our best shot.

When we woke up, I was freezing with no blanket, and desperate for fresh air after spending most of the night completely underneath my thin white sheet (head and all). We all surveyed the damage and, poor Jen and Clemence, they got the worst of it; Jen was covered in red welts from getting bitten, even though she spent the entire night completely under her sheets. Clemence’s face got attacked by some smaller bites, but for a girl with perfect skin she was horrified when she eventually found a mirror (much later in the day). We counted our losses and booked it as quickly as possible to our new hostel which, for the exact same price, was now like a five-star hotel to us. We had our own shower, beautiful new bug nets, and our own colorful alpaca blanket on each bed! Things were looking UP.

We quickly met some very brown surfers with mesmerizingly toned butt muscles and the kind of abs that ripple perfectly from one’s love of a sport, not frequent trips to the gym. Mmm, my favorite kind. We enjoyed some orange-pineapple juice (which Clemence read eliminates cellulite, hmm), eggs, and delicious bread for breakfast from the sandy patio overlooking the beach, which came with a swarm of bees that made me a bit anxious (I hate beeeees — luckily there aren’t many bugs at all up here in Quito!). We were on VACATION on the Ecuadorian coast. It felt freakin’ AWESOME.

Canoa, Ecuador. Photo by Jena (from http://jenainecuador.wordpress.com)

Canoa itself is beautiful, but not in a pristine-beach sort of way. (Check out my friend Jena’s blog for another take.) There is nothing pristine about Ecuador. Beautiful yes, but not pristine. The black and beige sand mixes together into a dark brown color, which somewhat matches the tone of the water but is interrupted beautifully by brightly colored tents set up each day all along the shore for lounging all day.

Breaking up the sound of crashing waves is the constant beat of the salsa-reggaeton-merengue mix, which blasts from speakers at a beach-side restaurant. People can be found dancing literally all day and night. Surfers wander the sandy town with surfboards in tow, and spend the afternoons (when the waves are a bit bigger) catching waves and giving surf lessons. Nobody wears shoes, despite piles of trash and beer bottles being passed around on the beach all day… I could go on describing Canoa, but then I’ll never get to the rest of the weekend!

I took a 2-hr walk along the beach every day, enjoying the fishing boats perched in the sand, and crabs scurrying by our feet. once you walk about 30-minutes beyond the colorful tents, you finally hear only the ocean, and it is wonderfully refreshing.

Boats and tents, Canoa, Ecuador. Photo by Jena (from ttp://jenainecuador.wordpress.com)

On day two, my friends Mark (Canada), Chris (Ohio), Nick (NJ), Kimrey (Tennessee), Jesua (Quito), Cynthia (Quito), and Anna (Quito) had arrived. It didn’t take long before we were playing frisbee in the big waves, and getting taken down and whacked over and over again by the powerful water, which was super fun. I actually think it was the perfect activity to help snap me out of the little Quito-funk I had been in. Sometimes you just need to spend a day jumping through giant waves, ya know?

Watchin' the Waves. Canoa, Ecuador. Photo by Chris H.

After what felt like a long time playing frisbee in the waves, I was about to go lounge in the sand when Chris and Jesua decided to play soccer with some young Ecuadorian boys. I couldn’t resist! So, we played. They pretty much kicked our butts (as much as under-10-year-olds can) and it was good fun. That’s one thing about Ecuador (or Latin America, really); no matter where you go, no matter what the scene, you can pretty much be certain that there will be people playing soccer there.

It was about 3pm and we hadn’t eaten lunch yet, so when Clemence was tired of waiting for me to stop playing with the boys, I decided it was time to go wash off in the water and call it a game. I went to the water, just where the waves meet the shore, and began wiping sand off my feet. I had cracked my left big toenail in half from soccer and it was bleeding and stinging from the ocean and sand but, not too big a deal. As I was rinsing off my feet, I felt something slap against my right foot. The second it happened, I began to feel stinging and burning. I quickly looked down and saw one long blue tentacle spread across my foot…. ARGH!!!

It had to be a jellyfish. Were there even jellyfish here!? No time to think. I just started rubbing the spot that was burning with water and sand, trying to rub the sting off, but it just started burning more and more. Ah, crap. I had been stung.

I started walking back to Clemence and encountered Chris. I asked if he knew whether or not there were jellyfish and said I was pretty sure I had gotten stung (I was a little worried not knowing how dangerous the jellyfish were in these waters, but had been stung many times in my childhood so I knew the basic drill). He kindly offered to pee on it, but said he’d have to drink some water first. I didn’t have time for that! I limped back to Clemence, told her I had been stung, and we walked back to the hostel where the Dutch surfer who ran it gave me a bottle of vinegar. He told me he had been stung a couple times in the past week so he felt my pain. Heh.

All I could really do was order a delicious almuerzo of fried fish, fried salted maduros (or non-sweet plantains), eat the tomato and onion salad with a little aji on it, and enjoy the maracuya (passion fruit) juice while I dabbed my burning foot in white vinegar. Of course, right? Of course!

Canoa, Ecuador. Photo by Chris H.

Later that evening, we spent happy hour with a bunch of Ecuadorian surfers at our hostel, sipping two-for-one pina coladas while sand crunched between our toes. A luke-warm shower and a bunch of Deet later, we found ourselves shaking everything we had on a beach-side dance floor.

I was kind of a merengue slut that night, I’ve gotta be honest. I danced with every guy that asked (yes, they ask here, it’s nice) and man was it fun. But, I did find myself spending most of my time dancing with my friend Mark’s Ecuadorian surf instructor, Juan (eek… he has the same name as my parasite!), who insisted I take off my flip-flops so I could really move my feet in the sand. When I’d look around, all my friends were dancing with their own latino surfers, and it just seemed like everyone was having a fantastic time. I know I was.

The next day, we recovered quickly and headed back to the beach for more of the same. That night, however, we all met up at Surf Shack for happy hour once again. We played some drinking games, met some ex-pats, and ended up being gifted a round of aguardiente (sugar cane alcohol) shots by Peter, the owner. Man were those tasty!

A large portion of the group ended up wandering over to what my friends swear is the best restaurant in Ecuador; a Basque restaurant, where I had a taste of my friend’s grilled garlic calamari and almost passed out from the deliciousness from which I have been so deprived lately. Then, somehow, I was encouraged to arm-wrestle my friend Desiree, and everyone knows I can’t back down from a challenge! This led to arm wrestling my friend Jesua, and eventually, a crab race between Nick and Jesua and then a real wrestling match on a dirt field between me and Jesua (who encouraged me to do this?!). Here are the pre- and post- wrestling match photos, for your amusement. (Yes, I’m in the blue.)

Me (left) about to wrestle Ecuadorian friend Jesua (right) with Nick (middle) officiating. Photo by Chris H.

Me (bottom) losing my wrestling match to Jesua (top) with Nick officiating. Photo by Chris H.

I get feisty when I drink, and competitive. Despite the fact that we determined Jesua weighs 50 lbs more than me, I am a girl who has never really wrestled before, and I had already arm wrestled three times (I was le tired!), I wasn’t going to back down from the cheering. So, while this was a losing battle (and I ended up covered in dirt), I think I will be better prepared for my next match. Thank you Mark for your quick coach-like pep-talk. I’m sorry if I disappointed anyone, but I gave it my best. I’m new to this whole wrestling thing. Hehe.

Ahhh, Canoa. I guess I’ve got to stop here. Just imagine another night after the wrestling match full of dancing new friends (one of which I actually got to hang out with again last night  because he’s from Quito — woop woop!) and a nice dull hangover the next morning (or as they say in Quechua, estaba un poco chuchaqui). Oh, and me galloping alone across the Ecuadorian coast on a beautiful brown horse, barefoot.

After several weeks of being disenchanted with life in Quito, Canoa splashed some water on my face, slapped me around in all the right ways, and made me truly happy to be here again. Hopefully, there will more trips like it.

I think it’s fair to say that, Quito, I’m back.

5 Comments

Filed under Ecuador

One Year of TwT

Just like that, a year has gone by. An extremely full, crazy, challenging, wonderful, unpredictable, refreshing, and inspiring year. A year full of travels for this Tavel.

I started T w T on July 7, 2009. As I’ve mentioned, I had a mini epiphany after I got hurt pretty badly by someone I trusted, for the second time. After the wave of crushing disappointment retreated, something strange happened: things that had been unclear for years suddenly became completely transparent, and I realized how important it was for me to follow my passion no matter what, no matter who, no matter why, no matter where…

This blog doesn’t just capture what has happened in my life, and what big and little trips I’ve take outside of NYC during the past 365 days; it represents the up and down journey that comes with following your passion or dream (not to sound cheesy but… yeah, cheese). My life has been one big mixed bag of adventures and possibilities this past year, and I would have NEVER predicted I’d be writing the one-year post at a MacBook in an apartment in Quito, Ecuador, as a travel writer.

In this year of T w T, I’ve gotten my hopes up, I’ve gotten them destroyed, I’ve been offered amazing opportunities, I’ve had people take them away, I’ve been hospitalized, I’ve been in love, I’ve been heartbroken, and I’ve been confused. I’ve traveled to Oregon, Arizona, Boston, Philadelphia, New Orleans, the Dominican Republic, Chicago, Rome, Pompeii, Vatican City, Argentina, and Ecuador. I’ve hiked through mud at 4,000 meters, I’ve seen Matt Damon run by, I’ve watched Argentina lose, I’ve watched the US win, I’ve soaked in natural hot springs, I’ve gone horseback riding in the Pampas, I’ve done yoga on the beach of Hispaniola two weeks before the earthquake hit Haiti, I wandered the ancient city of Pompeii one week before the eruption in Iceland. I’ve made mistakes, I’ve taken risks, I’ve followed my gut, and I’ve lived the dream — even if that dream has sometimes felt like a nightmare.

Thank you for tuning into all of it. And thank you for one year of traveling with this random 26-year-old Tavel, who is slowly but surely figuring out where she is, and always learning more about where she wants to go next…

10 Comments

Filed under Uncategorized