Tag Archives: Germany

Finding Freedom

Until I find a better home for this writing, it only feels natural to keep it here. But don’t forget to subscribe to my new newsletter via my new website, http://www.racheltavel.com (just scroll to the bottom to subscribe!).

Also, before you keep reading, I want to let you know that my writing here is stream-of-consciousness. I don’t edit it, and I honestly don’t even proofread it to keep it as authentic as possible. I write, then post. It’s fueled by coffee and a quiet moment in my day — just like my original TwT writing days. And I’m hoping to keep it as raw, unfiltered and authentic as I can for your enjoyment, and mine.

***

It’s a Friday morning in Berlin, and it’s been almost one-year since I moved to Germany. I don’t know if the year has gone quickly or slowly but it’s not an exaggeration to say that this move has been truly life changing.

When I became a mom during the pandemic, I began to feel stress in a way and on a level I never experienced before. I was pregnant, which made me feel vulnerable on its own, but combine that with the constant threat of an unknown deadly virus and living in one of its epicenters of contagion (NYC), it’s no wonder life as I knew it didn’t quite feel the same.

Medical bills, childcare costs, and — eventually — our landlords deciding to sell our precious home on the most beautiful street in Brooklyn were the tipping points. When, as a new mom, everything in my soul told me to stay still and nest, another part of my brain was constantly seeking safety and security — both of which I kept finding out no longer existed in the wonderful life I thought I had created for myself.

The pandemic really did change everything.

Or was it motherhood?

I found out I was pregnant the first week of March 2020, and the world shut down the second week of March 2020. So, for me, the two experiences are forever intertwined. I will never be able to separate one from the other, or compartmentalize which feelings were associated with which event.

But I do know this: the combination was lethal to the life I knew before March 2020.

When I married a German, I knew moving was always a possibility, but it was one I resisted for years. Until we had a kid. In NYC. And, as you can see, the rest is history.

So what was I hoping to get out of moving to Germany? What is it that I didn’t have in New York that would compel me to make such a drastic life decision to leave my beloved hometown and family and friends (and language) to live abroad in a city I had only spent a total of 10 days in?

And more importantly, did I find what I was looking for?

I spent so many months soul-searching before this move. What was it that felt so wrong about life at the time? Why did everything that once fit suddenly feel too tight, like my pre-baby clothes?

We were stretched so thin, masked and isolated. We were in crazy expensive city that I love so much, but unable to enjoy most of it. We — a physical therapist and writer married to a teacher — were making enough to live a nice life until we had a child. When the cost of childcare (almost $3,000/month) was added to our monthly bills, our lifestyle suddenly changed.

I felt suffocated by life. There was never enough time, sleep, or money to relax. The virus spiked and spiked again, two unexpected surgeries in one year led to extreme medical bills, and a move 45-minutes away, plus a new daycare 30 minutes in the opposite direction from my office, added a long daily commute that I never wanted.

My son, who I adore, went to bed later than most kids, which left me with about 30 minutes a day of “me” time. I was so completely burnt out that, even though I was making the most money I had ever made, I felt like I had the least to go around.

Something was clearly broken. And I, for the first time, was feeling like I was starting to break, too.

I’ve done a lot. I’ve taken on a ton of challenges (as many of you know!). I’ve traveled alone in Mexico. I’ve moved on a one-way ticket to Ecuador knowing nobody in the entire country. I’ve traveled to Japan and Turkey and Costa Rica on my own… Gone to grad school in my 30s. Taken pre-med accelerated physics courses at Harvard (Extension School).

I know the pain of a challenge! I know grit. I know how to feel uncomfortable. But this time, it was different. The balance of life was so off that I knew I needed a change. A big one this time.

I made lists. I remember when I was 21 and working at Travel + Leisure and Food & Wine magazines, I felt so awkward pretending that that was the life I wanted. The office was in Times Square, and every lunch hour I’d leave the building zipping from one midtown lunch spot to another just to try and find a place with a short line where I could get some food quickly. Everything just felt so chaotic and fake. I wore business casual clothes — blouses, kitten heels, pencil skirts. It was hard to move around, and I knew something about working a 9-5 in the magazine industry just didn’t fit the way I thought it would.

It would have been so much easier if it worked for me, but every cell in my body was just screaming NO. THIS IS NOT IT.

During those lunch hours I would keep a list. What little or big things in my day made me happy, and what little or big things felt “bad” or just didn’t feel right?

Happy: reading the travel and sports sections of the New York Times every morning, sunshine on my skin, my coworkers, being told I did a great job whenever I proofread or wrote the boss’ emails.
Bad: dressing up for work, spending all day at a desk, answering phones (man, I hated answering the damn office phones!), pretending I was anything but myself.

That list became longer and longer, and soon it became clear to me that when I left that corporate office job in NYC, I would never ever go back to one.

I wrote that list when I was 21, and it’s amazing how true to me the list still is. I’ve moved so many times (seven times in the first seven years after graduating, to be exact) that I lost the physical copy, but I have it imprinted in my mind, and even managed to stay true to it with this move.

As pressure from motherhood and the post-pandemic world began to build, I began a new list. This one was just a pros and cons list: New York vs Germany. And, unlike my original list written on a pad of paper with a blue pen, this one was saved as a Google Doc in my Google Drive. I added to it, examined it, and meditated on it for years…

Here’s a sampling:

New York Pros: being near family (the glaring #1, always), career opportunities, potential to make a lot of money and be super successful, English, friends, the safety of feeling close to home, less risky

New York Cons: cost of living, noise, chaos, unpredictability or living situation and medical costs, need for huge financial cushion, cost of childcare, hustle culture, competitiveness for everything, intensity is too high, complete lack of work-life balance, constant need to make more money and work more to have a good life, not enough family time

Germany Pros: better work-life balance, more time for family, lower cost of living, lower cost of healthcare and childcare (echem, free!), Auggie gets to learn German, dual citizenship in the EU (just in case), easier/safer/more secure to try freelancing, it’s freakin’ EUROPE!

Germany Cons: I don’t speak German (yet), far from mom (insert broken heart emoji) and family, potentially very isolating experience, homesickness, fewer career opportunities after I’ve worked so fucking hard to get here, lower salary, less independence (need my husband to help — not easy for a very independent lady), huge stresses and emotions associated with big international move

So what tipped the scale? What became so clear that I could no longer deny it?

One word: FREEDOM.

In New York City, I began to feel trapped. Money money money. That’s what life was all about. Make more, earn more, have more, then breathe. My salary may have gone up. My opportunities may have gone up (actually, they certainly were). But my wellbeing was going down.

I thought long and hard about what are some of the most important values in my life, and the word freedom kept coming up. Freedom to live. Freedom to go to restaurants if and when I wanted. Freedom to spend time with family. Freedom to travel. Freedom to work the way I wanted to work. Freedom to be the me I always wanted to be… or really more like the inevitability of being the me I couldn’t pretend NOT to be. As inconvenient as I am!

The writer. The traveler. The adventurer who values freedom over money (but also needs both to achieve it all). The ambitious constantly excited about life seeker who doesn’t want to be contained in someone else’s box of expectations. The homebody who also needs excitement and to feel constant stimulation from the world. Movement, travel, and small pleasures inspire me. I can work hard and fast, so office jobs never suited me.

I can get done in 4 hrs what someone does in an 8 hr day, so it tortured me to have to sit there anyway, even when the work was done. Or just get more work to fill the time. That life didn’t make sense to me. I wanted out of it.

I can say now, almost one year after this move, that balance has been restored. Nothing and nowhere is perfect, but my ability to sit here right now and write like I haven’t done in MONTHS is evidence of this.

Balance — time to to think, to be creative, to be inspired, and to write. This is a return to me. This is the space I have been seeking. Space to breathe, to get clarity, to dream again.

So have I found that here in Berlin? Yes. Yes, I have. But I didn’t get here without a fight.

As I return to my roots as Travels with Tavel, I am so looking forward to telling you more about this new life as Rachel in Berlin.

It feels so good to just write for pleasure again. Thank you for sticking with me.

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Alemania Mania

Well, it’s over.

Both the US and Argentina are out of the World Cup, and I must retire my Lionel Messi jersey (and my World Cup dreams) for another four years. Argentina had a disappointing — and dare I say embarrassing? — finish, and their 4-0 loss to Germany did not do me much good when I found myself sitting in a plaza in Ecuador, surrounded by a healthy mix of Argentine and German fans, with the losing team’s jersey on my back.

I watched the game in disblelief. I knew there was a very good chance that Argentina could lose, but I really didn’t think it would happen. Not like it did. As each goal seemed to putter past the Argentine goalie (who I still think looks like a My Little Pony), I couldn’t do anything. It was like watching a dorky kid get kicked by a big bully over and over again, and watching him just take it; I sat there wondering what they were thinking, what they were doing, why Argentina was playing such a bad game when I was certain they could do better? Why throw it all away? Why cower to the German giants, who robbed them of advancing to the semi-finals the exact same way four years ago? Ah, but it’s Argentina. We’re used to this sort of thing.

The fact is, the Germans played better. They were stronger, faster, surer of themselves, and more confident. They won because they outplayed Argentina, and there isn’t much more to say about it.

When the game ended, the concentration of people with Argentine jerseys began to dissolve. Germans started to pour out from different watering holes and cafes, with that mean looking flag of theirs flying around at every turn. Suddenly, there was singing, chanting, screaming in German. You would have thought they won the World Cup final by the way they were celebrating. Cars started honking, they would jump on the back of pick-up trucks that drove by, cheering and swigging their beers. I was told there were a lot of Germans in this town; now I believed it.

Germans celebrating their victory in Plaza Foch. Photo by Desiree A.

I went from feeling like a confident half-Argentine to feeling like a lamb ready for the slaughter. As I watched the players hearts break on the tv, I knew it was a matter of time before I had to get up and walk-of-shame through the rest of the day. Luckily, I had a complete Viva Guides posse with me.

I decided I needed a sad photograph with the Germans celebrating behind me, so my friend Desiree and I decided to brave the enemy celebration for the sake of one photo. I walked cautiously to the center of Plaza, where the Germans were getting rowdy. My blue and white striped Messi jersey stuck to me like I was wearing a Jewish star during the H0locaust (sorry, couldn’t help the reference!). I expected to get made fun of, to be taunted, laughed at… But I knew I had to brave the situation for the sake of a funny photo.

Sad Tavel, Happy German. Photo by Desiree A.

Just when I got close enough to the celebrating Germans, I did my sad pout and Desiree got her cell phone camera ready. Then, much to my surprise, a large German guy who had been dancing around just a second ago saw my sulking face and gave me a big hug. Without speaking, he just put his arms around me and patted me with pity on the head, beer in hand. I made it out alive, and I realized that maybe these Germans weren’t going to be so mean afterall.

A couple hours later, after killing some time before the next game, my Viva posse and I decided to get some food. We found a nondescript burger place that was mostly empty, and took over two large tables where we thought we could eat in peace.

Sure enough, a few minutes after ordering, I heard the familiar chanting of happy Germans. And, just my luck, in walked a crowd of about 10 smashed Germans, screaming and singing with facepaint nearly dripping down their strong cheekbones. The women were double or triple my size, and looked like they could eat me for lunch after throwing me around like a rag doll.

Of course, there I was, still in my Argentine jersey, deflated from the game and looking all pathetic against their black, red and orange stripes (thanks Maradona, THANKS). It didn’t take long for them to notice me. Immediately after walking in and seeing my Messi jersey, the heckling began… “MESSI! MESSI! WHO THE FUCK IS MESSI!?!” They surrounded me, screamed at me, chanted in my ears, danced around me… My poor coworkers just looked at me, embarrassed, wondering why the hell I didn’t bring a change of shirt. I knew they had my back, but sitting on a little bench with 10 enormous, drunk, Germans screaming and singing and cackling behind me was a little scary… Not gonna lie!

Me getting heckled by Germans, post-match. Photo by Desiree A.

Luckily, I made it out alive. You win some, you lose some, and sometimes all you can do is accept your defeat, take a photo and write a blog about it. My Argentina jersey has officially been put away this World Cup, but the real fun begins now. As we approach the semi-finals and eventually the  much-anticipated final, we’ll see who is celebrating in the end. No matter who wins, I have a feeling it will probably be me.

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Berlin Art

Great guesses, people! I loved these responses: “That’s what it looks like behind my fridge…Has to be CA” (Ursula), “…looking through floor grates at a woman practicing flamenco” (Missy), “My guess is Europe otherwise I’m stymied”(Geordie), “The Red Light District in Amsterdam” (Susana), and “It looks like a woman being swallowed up or crushed by chords…Yet she’s smiling” (Jessi). Sometimes it’s interesting to just throw a very abstract image out there and leave it up to the viewer to make something out of it (or not). You all saw a different story. Isn’t that what art is all about? Well, that’s a whole other discussion entirely…

I’m not going to congratulate specific people but rather thank all of you who took a stab at this one. Here is Marie’s explanation of the photograph:

“This is a photo taken in Berlin this past May. It was at a guerilla art event in an abandoned bathhouse’s basement. There were galleries and exhibits all through this vast cavernous space. In one alcove was a grated floor. Below was this woman dressed up as part of the pipes. She was writhing on the floor while people standing on the grate looked down and watched her performance. She actually has gallery representation (although nothing tangible to sell). No one will ever guess. You had to be there.”

Thank you to Marie for sharing this unique shot and contributing to Travels with Tavel! I’m looking for more mystery snapshot contributors so pass yours along!

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Up For Interpretation

This week’s photo comes to us from the wonderful Marie Greener.

Rather than trying to guess the exact location of this photograph, perhaps you can try to interpret it

What is going on here? What do you see? Feel free to guess the country, too. And IT’S OK TO BE WRONG! Guess away…

Marie Mystery Snap

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