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A Sleepy Haze of Beer and Chocolate

I wrote this after my first day in Brussels in October 2007. For anyone who has never been, it’s just a short reflection. I wrote it from Dawn’s apartment while she showered, just before catching a train to Amsterdam.

 

Chocolate Scoop. Brussels, Belgium

 

Despite the fact that I am deliriously tired (I can barely see this screen right now), so far Brussels has been a slightly more stylish, more foggy, but just as beautiful place as I had imagined.  Am I REALLY here? The fact that I can wake up in one country and, in a matter of hours, wake up again in ANOTHER country continues to boggle my mind. Poor Dawn. I keep on asking her if I am in Brussels, followed by lots of giggles.  “Hey, Dawnimal – Am I really in BRUSSELS?? Heeheehee…” I’m a bit on the delirious side of sleepy, yes, and clearly very excited to be in Europe. I’m sure I’ll get over it soon. (I’m in Belgium. Heehee!)

I’ve already had two of the most incredible pieces of chocolate, three deliciously rich Belgian beers, and met three great people — an American named Rachael (she spells her name wrong, oh well), an Italian named Laura, and a Spaniard named Miguel. I’m off to Amsterdam in a couple hours, so let’s get to it.

The day ends. Brussels, Belgium.

The day ends. Brussels, Belgium.

To give you a sense of how little I have slept, I will briefly breeze through my “day” yesterday… if I can even call it a “day.”

On Thursday, I left NYC for the airport at 3pm after waking up at 7:30am that morning. I got on a 6:05pm direct flight to Brussels, Belgium, where I arrived a little early at 7:30am. This, for me, was 1:30am. Per usual, I did not sleep a wink on the plane. Any shut-eye activity was replaced by a great six-hour conversation with the Flemish woman sitting next to me. She left me craving Belgian chocolate and Dutch goat cheese, both of which she had described to me as tasting above and beyond what I will ever find in the US.

My First Belgian Chocolate Shop. Let me in!

My First Belgian Chocolate Shop. Let me in!

After an early morning arrival in Brussels, I found myself standing around at the gate for about 40 minutes, wondering what I should do if my lovely hostess never appeared. I must have looked a little flustered because a handsome Belgian man looked over at me, smiled, and just said “don’t worry, she’ll show up…” Hehe (how did he know?!). We talked for a little bit — about Brussels, Holland, French and Dutch — and then, sure enough, my hostess, Dawn, appeared! It was about 8:30 am when we hopped on a bus from the airport to get to her apartment, which would be about 2:30am, NYC-time.

A couple of busses and turns down cobblestone streets later, we had arrived! The first thing I noticed was the side-by-side homes, all only a few stories high, and completely unique. They were neatly packed along pristine sidewalks that had the light complexion of a well-off city.

The tall narrow trees reminded me of previous trips to Europe. My heart fluttered in excitement as it always does in anticipation of exploring a new place. I was happy and excited, feeling strangely at home as I looked around  at the intensely overcast morning that was just creeping out from under a starry night, which I had the pleasure of enjoying from the sky.

Brussels detail. Belgium.

Brussels detail. Belgium.

The day stayed on the brink of raining without ever squeezing out a drop. I was expecting a mixture of languages, but so far – on day one – all I have heard is French. Oh man… how I LOVE hearing French. It amazes me how easy it is to understand, yet when someone says something to me in French, my instinct is to respond in Spanish or just stand there, dumbly blank, with no arsenal of words to throw back into the conversation.

After a two-hour deep, drowsy post-arrival nap in my trusty sleeping bag, I woke up completely out of it, but hoping to get out before I messed up my sleeping pattern any more. Dawn, Rachael and I hit up a delicious pizza place called Mama Roma, where I feasted in my jet-lag stupor on a square of pepperoni pizza with a perfectly flavored crunchy crust that left me extremely thirsty. My sleep-deprivation was beginning to catch up with me in a bad way, so we turned another corner and, after popping into a couple places that didn’t make the cut (I have a radar for cute/special spots that automatically goes on every time I travel, and I have trouble settling for less), we found an adorable coffee shop that made me feel like I was in Paris.

In we walked, past the long, crimson velvet curtains that kept out the cold and around a glass counter encasing some of the most delicately delicious looking flourless chocolate cakes and other tarte-like desserts. Ahh… Europe! I have missed you! I think that was the first moment I really felt like I was here.

My first latte in Brussels with Dawn. Belgium.

My first latte in Brussels with Dawn. Belgium.

I ordered a delicious latte that soaked up some of my exhaustion pretty quickly but, just as quickly, left me sleepy-headed again. An incredible orange-scented chocolate lifted me back up, as did the brisk, fresh, undeniably European air when we walked back out into the grey.

BrusselsRandom2

Dawn had class from 4-6pm, so Rachael and I walked around for a couple hours until I could barely stand up anymore (functioning on exactly two hours of sleep). The walk adrenalized me. THIS is what I had been waiting for: EUROPE. The previous couple of years, I had traveled to Japan, Costa Rica, Argentina, Mexico and Turkey… but for some reason, I had been CRAVING Western Europe like a pregnant woman craves pickles.

Chocolates. Brussels, Belgium.

Chocolates. Brussels, Belgium.

I feel completely at home in Europe, yet subtly clunkier and less stylish compared to everyone else in the upscale neighborhoods. And in this case, I was carrying the biggest suitcases directly under each eye – such a faux pas!

I’ve already seen some beautiful, Victorian-style gardens, tons of sculptures and churches (yes, all this stuff DOES it for me like nothing else), and tons of bars/pubs with these cute cartoon-like signs hanging outside. But what seems to dominate my sleepy conscious is the constant thought of CHOCOLATE.

More chocolate. Brussels, Belgium.

More chocolate. Brussels, Belgium.

Waffles, lace, beer, and CHOCOLATE. That’s what I know about Belgium. And I plan to do some major research in a couple of those categories while I’m here. Despite the apparent wealth and lack of major class distinctions within the city so far, I am liking it here.

Chocolate heaven. Brussels, Belgium.

Chocolate heaven. Brussels, Belgium.

At around 5:30pm, I began to crash. Rachael and I headed to her apartment where I quickly found her couch and went from vertical to horizontal in a matter of seconds, fighting heavy eyes and a creaky body. After an hour or so of fighting sleep and feasting on Cote d’Or chocolates (OH. MY. GAWD. —  I’m not usually a big chocolate eater but WOW), Dawn arrived. The three of us eventually decided to wander around and find a place for dinner. We ended up selecting this adorable little restaurant with brass/iron junk and ceramic pipes hanging from the ceiling. The place was incredibly warm and cozy, with deep brick walls and a small dining area where we were among Belgian couples speaking quietly in French as they sipped wine in oh-so-European bliss. The menus were like a little girl’s journal and the atmosphere resonated with a fairytale sparkle, which felt appropriate, as it sometimes takes me a day or two to believe I’m really where all the signs say I am. I tasted some of the most amazing goat cheese (checked that off the list immediately) and enjoyed laughing and catching up with Dawn and Rachael.

We met up a little bit later with Miguel, a hilarious, adorable Spaniard (it felt like such a relief to speak Spanish after feeling so useless without any Flemish/Dutch/French skills) and a fun, sweet Italian woman named Laura. Miguel kept choosing beers for me, all of which were extremely tasty and Belgian — just what I had been waiting for — and we ended up all getting drunk and laughing/talking until I was told I should probably go to sleep at 1:30am (this definitely means I was more-or-less awake for over 30 hours, but I’ll let YOU do the math!).

NOW, I am going to hop in the shower, pack a weekend bag, and head to AMSTERDAM for the next couple of nights! Can’t wait. But I’m going to need a lot more delicious lattes and chocolates to get me through it…

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Manneken Pis and Grand Place

Congratulations Missy and Dawn, but especially Dawn for coming up with several of the legends behind this silly statue of a little boy peeing.  An extra shout-out goes to Dawn, for hosting me in Brussels and taking me to SEE this little guy in person.

In response to your question Dawn, I don’t have a photo of me with M.P. in it (do you??). However, because you are this week’s big winner, I will reward you with this photograph:

Dawn in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium

Dawn in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium

And just so you’re not alone, I will join you in mid-air. Here I am (October, 2007) doing my signature leap, which I try to do in ever country I visit.

Tavel Leaping in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Tavel Leaping in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Now back to the peeing boy.

Located in Brussels, Belgium, last week’s mystery snapshot is of Manneken Pis, the little Belgian boy permanently captured (in bronze) relieving himself. (With so many people constantly looking at him, I’m surprised he never gets pee-fright…) I quickly learned that this is one of the most famous statues in Brussels, although nobody has settled on the true story behind it.

Several versions exist. The legend I was told, (and therefore, the legend I will share),  involves a nobleman who lost his young son in Brussels. After two days of frantically searching, the townspeople found him peeing in the distance. In order to thank the people of Brussels for finding his son and to punish the little boy for wandering off (a healthy dose of public humiliation never hurt anyone), the nobleman had this statue created. It now stands just outside of Grand Place (the French name, or Grote Markt in Dutch), the central square of Brussels, and one of the most fabulous plazas I have ever seen.

As a side note, anyone who appreciates Gothic/Baroque architecture, must look up Grand Place or — even better — check it out in-person some day. And for those who don’t give a damn about architecture, I guarantee you’ll be impressed too.

Grand Place Shadow. Brussels, Belgium.

Grand Place Shadow. Brussels, Belgium.

The intricate and, well, “grand” guild houses that surround this square demonstrate an incredible blend of styles, including the elaborate and dramatic details that define Baroque and Gothic architecture. The buildings themselves are not very large, but the embellishments are quite captivating. I found my gaze leaping from building to building, discovering new flourishes that continued to entertain my eyes.

En Route to Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium

En Route to Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium

Grey Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Grey Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

When I first arrived in the plaza, it appeared dark and spooky; layers of shadows rippled across the crevices and facades of old building and dark windows shut out any light. But the second time I visited the plaza, I was stunned; it glowed. The plaza completely transforms in the light and deserves several visits in order to appreciate all its detail. I found the plaza especially beautiful once I returned gnawing on a truffle from one of the many surrounding chocolate shops. Just a suggestion.

Grand Place with Belgian Flag. Brussels, Belgium.

Grand Place with Belgian Flag. Brussels, Belgium.

Shadows in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Shadows in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Blue Sky in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Blue Sky in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Corner of Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Corner of Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Baroque details in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

Baroque details in Grand Place. Brussels, Belgium.

In the 15th-17th centuries, the plaza was constructed in a medley of style. In 1695, the city of Brussels was bombarded by the French, who attacked the plaza with canon balls and eventually set fire to it. Grand Place was almost completely flattened and destroyed. Remarkably, it was rebuilt over the next four years and has been a stunning sight every since.

If you’ve ever been to Grand Place, please share your own reflections as a comment!

There is much more to say about Brussels, so I will continue with my impression in the next entry, and I invite others to share their Brussels experiences as well.

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September Snapshot

I know it’s Tuesday, and Mystery Snapshot Day is traditionally Wednesday, but I just couldn’t WAIT! I plan to take a very long bike ride along the Hudson River tomorrow morning, so I won’t have time to post an entry before work. I hope you forgive me for disrupting routine and celebrate the first day of SEPTEMBER (how the heck did THAT happen?) by trying to guess today’s mystery photo…

Please tell me in which European city this sculpture can be found and, if you can, the story behind it.  Also, I always love to know who has stood exactly where I have in another part of the world, so why don’t you throw that in there.

When ya gotta go...

When ya gotta go...

Relief

Relief

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Travels with Tavel, The Playlist

[NOTE: The Mystery Snapshots from the previous entry will be revealed in a separate posting with a little story about how sometimes a dream trip can turn into a travel nightmare… Stay tuned.]

Thank you EVERYONE who contributed one or more songs to this Ultimate Travel Playlist! I have put together the entire list and done something pretty awesome, if I do say so myself…

I have added a YouTube video for every single song, so you can listen by clicking each title below. I know, I know… I’m just TOO much! (Don’t ask how long it took me to put this together…)

I take no responsibility for the quality or content of these music videos, some of which are pretty lame. Just close your eyes, listen, imagine you’re about to land somewhere new and incredible… and enjoy.

1. Paper Planes (M.I.A)
2. Life in the City (Michael Franti and Spearhead)
3. Helen (Nizlopi)
4. Little Secrets (Passion Pit)
5. Run and Hide (Algebra Blessett)
6. Montaña (Gipsy Kings)
7. Raining in Paradise (Manu Chao)
8. Say Hey (I Love You) (Michael Franti and Spearhead featuring Cherine Anderson)
9. Born to Run (Bruce Springsteen)
10. America (Simon & Garfunkle)
11. Stuck Between Stations (The Hold Steady)
12. Let Down (Radiohead)
13. Like a Rolling Stone (Bob Dylan)
14. Chan Chan (Buena Vista Social Club)
15. Semi-Charmed Life (Third Eye Blind)
16. You’ll Always Be Loved By Me (Brooks and Dunn)
17. Raspberry Beret (Prince)
18. Only Wanna Be With You (Hootie and the Blowfish)
19. Sugar (Tonic)
20. Jack and Diane (John Mellencamp)
21. Sweet Home Alabama (Lynyrd Skynyrd)
22. Life Is a Highway (Tom Cochrane)
23. 3×5 (John Mayer)
24. Breakdown (Jack Johnson)
25. Vienna (Billy Joel)
26. Here Comes the Sun (The Beatles)
27. Carolina in My Mind (James Taylor)
28. The Way She Is (Stephen Kellogg)
29. America Song (Stephen Kellogg)
30. The Laws Have Changed (The New Pornographers)
31. Back In Your Head (Tegan and Sarah)
32. I Feel It All (Feist)
33. O Valencia (The Decemberists)
34. Always Where I Need To Be (The Kooks)
35. Great Expectations (The Gaslight Anthem)
36. 59 Sound (The Gaslight Anthem)
37. Free Fallin’ (Tom Petty)
38. I Know What I know (Paul Simon)
39. Diamonds On The Soles of Her Shoes (Paul Simon)
40. Beautiful World (Colin Hay)
41. Melbourne Song (Colin Hay)
42. All Along the Watchtower (Jimi Hendrix)
43. Leaving On A Jetplane (Chantal Kreviazuk)
44. Talk Amongst Yourselves (Grand National)
45. Buildings and Mountains (The Republic Tigers)
46. Ta Loca (Son de Cali)
47. Enjoy The Ride (Morcheeba)
48. On The Road Again (Willie Nelson)
49. Ants Marching (Dave Matthews)
50. Riding With The King (BB King and Eric Clapton) [No Link]
51. If I Had A Million Dollars (Barenaked Ladies)
52. The Boys of Summer (Don Henley)
53. Get Outta My Dreams (Billy Ocean)
54. Flux (Bloc Party)
55. Fruit Machine (The Ting Tings)
56. Your Cover’s Blown (Belle and Sebastian)
57. Of Montreal (Grondlandic Edit)
58. Time To Pretend (MGMT)
59. Sunshowers (M.I.A.)
60. Ankle Injuries (Fujiya & Miyagi)
61. Where Is My Mind (Pixies)
62. Theme Song (Flight of the Conchords)
63. Enjoy The Silence (Depeche Mode)

Together we created this playlist! And now I’m adding a bunch more songs to the list, because it’s my blog and I can do WHATEVER I WANT!

64. Paris (Yael Naïm)
65. Sympathique (Pink Martini)
66. Chaiyya Chaiyya (from the movie Inside Man)
67. Digitalism in Cairo (Digitalism)
68. Juan Loco (Rodrigo y Gabriela)
69. Galang Galang (M.I.A.)
70. Snow – Hey Oh (Red Hot Chili Peppers)
71. Use Somebody (Kings of Leon)
72. Tulips (Bloc Party)
73. La Revancha del Tango (Gotan Project)
74. Jerusalem remix – Out of Darkness Comes Light (Matisyahu)
75. Necta – Butterfly On Her Shoulder (Sashamon)
76. Crazy For You (Adele)
77. Satisfy My Soul (Bob Marley)
78. Stir It Up (Bob Marley)
79. Somewhere Over The Rainbow (Israel Kamakawiwo’Ole IZ)
80. New York, New York (Frank Sinatra with Tony Bennett)

For those interested, I plan to eventually make a separate tab for Travel Tunes alone so that people can add to the travel playlist anytime.

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The Ultimate Travel Playlist

I’ve decided to do something different today.

Instead of only doing a mystery snapshot, I have decided to assemble the ultimate travel playlist by asking each of you to submit, as a comment, one to five of your favorite travel/trip songs. Share the songs that you would listen to while on a plane, train, boat, or car ride to a new place, the songs that make you feel excited about something new or just travel in general! Then feel free to download the entire list, which I will post in my next entry…

The songs can be old, new, cheesy, out-of-character, personal, uncool, and/or all of the above. This isn’t about judging people’s music taste (there are plenty of other blogs for that); this is about sharing the songs that get your heart racing and your wanderlust going, and learning what songs do the same for others. Don’t be shy.

To start us off, here are five songs I’d definitely play while en route to my next international adventure:

1. M.I.A — Paper Planes

2. Michael Franti and Spearhead — Life in the City

3. Nizlopi — Helen

4. Passion Pit — Little Secrets

5. Algebra Bassett — Run and Hide

(Ahhh, and there are so many more…)

Just so that you aren’t left without some image to daydream about, here are two shots I took that are all about COLOR. Can you guess what island these come from?

Green Black

Green Black

Blue Black

Blue Black

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Taxco: The Silver City

Good work Katie C.! You are the only one who came close to figuring out last week’s mystery snapshot, which is of a street in the beautiful town of Taxco, Mexico. I wrote about Taxco  (it was considered a “side-trip” in my Acapulco chapter)  for a Frommer’s guidebook, MTV Best of Mexico, published by Wiley Publishing in 2007. Geordie picked up on my clue: the word “plateria” appears in the photograph, which — in Spanish — means silver shop. I was hoping more of you would make the connection, but perhaps not many people know about Taxco… Actually, I think this is for the best.

Nevertheless, I want to tell you about it. Here is a little article I wrote when I returned from my short trip to Taxco a few years ago. [If you want to see the photos in higher resolution, look at the Photos page, towards the bottom.]

Taxco: The Silver City

Through the bus window, I found myself winding deeper and deeper into the hills of the Mexican countryside. I was en route to Taxco, the “Silver City,” on a bus that was larger than many of the homes we passed. The roads were becoming narrower and the hills, increasingly steep. I waited eagerly for my first glimpse of Taxco, but saw no sign of the quaint colonial town.

View from Posada de la Mision, Taxco, Mexico

View from Posada de la Mision, Taxco, Mexico

Eventually, the hairpin turns and steep incline began to make me nauseous. I clutched my seat anxiously as the bus maneuvered its way through the unforgiving contours of the mountains, huffing and puffing up each hill as if to mark its final lap. Just as I was about to close my eyes and pray for the best, we made one final turn. Suddenly, unraveling before my eyes like a spool of Mexican history, was Taxco. I was immediately lost in observation.

Buried within the State of Guerrero, Taxco is a place that seems to exist outside of time and reality. Sitting at an altitude of about 5,000 feet and located 3.5 hrs from Acapulco and 2.5 hours from Mexico City, Taxco is considered a perfect weekend getaway due to its manageable size and accessible isolation. While it might not be the typical Mexican escape, it offers travelers the opportunity to visit a lesser-known side of Mexico that is completely different from the more popular resort towns, and much more authentic.

Father and daughter, Taxco, Mexico

Father and daughter, Taxco, Mexico

Taxco earned its name as the “Silver City” for being a silver-mining capital. Evidence of its silver mining glory days persists throughout the excess of silver shops that line every sidewalk. Its reputation as a silver capital has been preserved – as has its beautiful history – by the many families who have been living as silversmiths in Taxco for hundreds of years. Luckily, many of the old monasteries in this highly spiritual location have been converted into hotels without compromising their architectural beauty and without losing their eerie effect. One can experience and see the layers of Mexican history at every turn. Indications of the past have been vigilantly preserved, but Taxco is by no means creaky and old; it is still full of life and buzzing with activity, with a small burgeoning nightlife (that, admittedly, must obey the town’s “quiet hours”) and a sudden surge of interest among travelers who continue to seek the corners of Mexico that have not not been spoiled by high-rise hotels or drug-related violence.

Silver SHop, Taxco, Mexico

Silver SHop, Taxco, Mexico

Taxco seems to come out of nowhere. The crowded, bustling town explodes from the Mexican countryside, completely unannounced but instantly breathtaking. When I first arrived, I felt completely transported through time. Two and a half hours earlier I had been in modern Mexico City. Now I was in a town filled with red-tiled rooftops and white monasteries reminiscent of the 15th and 16th centuries.

Taxco View

Taxco View

The streets and buildings are all built harmoniously into the landscape without trying to change the natural ascents and descents of the mountainous terrain. Ancient-looking cobblestone sidewalks double as roads, which wind through the town like a magestic outdoor labyrinth. In Taxco, going for a walk is an adventure lined by high walls over which only a glimpse of the surrounding mountains can be seen.

Daily Life, Taxco, Mexico

Daily Life, Taxco, Mexico

The only car used throughout the town is the Volkswagen Beetle, giving the town a toy-like charm. Only the Beetle can navigate the steep and tiny streets because  its engine is located in the back  rather than the front of the car. Everyone owns the same car (if they own one at all), which is something I have only witnessed in movies like Edward Scissorhands. As one walks, the identical chugging cars just add to the fairytale charm that emanates from this unique town.

Taxco is a truly authentic place with a rich past that will anchor its promising future. The size and compactness of the town (most shops, museums, and churches spill into the streets around the central Plaza Borda, where the Santa Prisca Church is located) making the city easy to navigate, and completely walk-able – perfect for a weekend excursion.
Santa Prisca Church, Taxco, Mexico

Santa Prisca Church, Taxco, Mexico

If you ever find yourself in Taxco, be sure to sample the traditional Mexican restaurants, taste the chili pepper-covered fruit sold by locals on the sidewalks, visit the Guillermo Spratling Silver Museum, and get completely lost while aimlessly wandering the busy streets. If you’re up for an adventure, organize a trip to the nearby Grutas de Cacahuamilpa, where you can take a three-hour tour inside one of the largest, most impressive and well-preserved caves in the world (or, as the Taxcoans call it, “the Eighth World Wonder”).
Home and Flowers, Taxco, Mexico

Home and Flowers, Taxco, Mexico

Often reduced to a side-trip, Taxco is much more. Many who stumble into the town decide never to leave. Every restaurant, church and shop has a story behind it. Both the days and nights cast an unforgettable spell on every traveler who passes through. Taxco is one of the most beautiful and picturesque towns in all of Mexico. If you ever find yourself within a reasonable radius of its meandering cobblestone streets, I recommend exploring it for yourself.

Taxco Funeral

Taxco Funeral

For all who do go to Taxco, remember to get lost within the mesmerizing white walls of the “Silver City” as many times as possible. And when you eventually decide to leave, good luck trying to translate Taxco’s magic into words.

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Cerro de los Siete Colores

Good work Missy and Kerry! You two were the closest to solving Mystery Snapshot 4. As Missy put it, “I saw the color of the sky and I knew it had to be Argentina.” To everyone who thought the photograph was of somewhere in the US, what a good reminder of how beautiful parts of our country can be!  (And, for the record Tom, I have been to Colorado multiple times, so good guess.) But enough patriotism…

The name of the hills in the last mystery snapshot is Cerro de los Siete Colores (“Seven Color Hills”) in Purmamarca, Argentina (northwestern Argentina, very close to the Bolivian border). It is also referred to by some people as the Hill of Seven Skirts because the layers of colors mimic the long skirts that Andean women wear (I believe this is a very “unofficial” name).

Located in the Humahuaca Ravine in the province of Jujuy, Purmamarca is an indigenous village framed by the Cerro de los Siete Colores. It sits at an altitude of about 2,200 m and has become quite touristy due to the beautiful surrounding hills, which get their color from a variety of minerals in the earth. The varying pigmentation is due to the accumulation of sea, lake, and river sediments that have been deposited in the region over the past 600 million years. The mountains themselves are a result of tectonic movement over time.  (In my very first entry, “Travels with Tavel has Finally Arrived” I posted a photograph of me wandering the streets of this town.)

Sadly, most of my time in Purmamarca was spent laying on the floor of a beautiful restaurant with my then-13-year-old-brother, dealing with altitude sickness and trying not to puke. Alas, not every travel experience can be a dream come true!

Earlier that day we had climbed (uhh, in a small bus) to an altitude of 4,200 m. On the way back down, with my blood sugar low and many twists and turns around cliff after cliff, I started to see stars (it was broad daylight) and began to sink into my seat. I knew what was coming. Unfortunately, I decided to spit out the mouthful of coca (yes, cocaine) leaves I had been instructed to chew in order to help adjust to the high altitude because I thought I had conquered the mountains. Around the time I began to turn green, I realized I was wrong. During our rather rapid descent from 4,200 m (just under 13,000 feet) into Purmamarca, I blacked out. Luckily, there was an emergency oxygen tank in the back of the van for this exact purpose and I even had an ex-Staten Island firefighter on board! Convenient, because let’s just say there probably was no hospital — or convenience store —  in the mountains just outside Bolivia.

It actually happened pretty quickly. One minute, I was absolutely fine – just really, really hungry and thirsty. The next second I said “Mom, I think I’m about to pass out…” and then, sure enough, I felt my head detach from my body, my spine turn to jello, and my view went from exceptionally scenic to black.

Oops.

Now, what did my mom do as soon as I “came to” with an oxygen mask placed on my face?

1. Laugh at me.

2. Take a photo.

Thanks mom.

Besides the dizziness,  I was able to enjoy Purmamarca’s quiet existence, with its small dusty streets,  squat adobe homes,  small old church, and shady main plaza.  The clay-red village was serene against its much more striking landscape. All seven colors of the hills echoed in the clothing and pottery sold by indigenous villagers, whose toothless smiles were big and welcoming in the warm breeze.

While there isn’t much to do in Purmamarca besides wander the clay streets, admire the colorful surrounding hills, and enjoy some llama meat at one of the two surprisingly delicious and inventive restaurants, isn’t that why you (and everyone else) are there?

Here are a few more photographs of Purmamarca and the Cerro de los Siete Colores — a beautiful sight that I am more capable of enjoying now, through my photographs, since the hills have stopped spinning.

Cerro de los 7 Colores, Purmamarca, Argentina

Cerro de los 7 Colores, Purmamarca, Argentina

Cerro de los 7 Colores view, Purmamarca, Argentina

Cerro de los 7 Colores view, Purmamarca, Argentina

Street view from indigenous town of Purmamarca, Argentina, framed by Cerro de Siete Colores

Street view from indigenous town of Purmamarca, Argentina, framed by Cerro de Siete Colores

Clay pots in Purmamarca, Argentina

Clay pots in Purmamarca, Argentina

Mate gourds and bombillas, artisan market in Purmamarca, Argentina

Mate gourds and bombillas, artisan market in Purmamarca, Argentina

Car and window, Purmamarca, Argentina

Car and adobe home in Purmamarca, Argentina

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The Revelation

Wow, it appears I stumped everyone with my mysterious photo of a large, architecturally ambiguous grey church. Your observations and guesses were actually very interesting! It made me realize that we see things very differently when we alter our expectations.

Well, there are no winners today but, regardless, it is time for the REVELATION!

The mystery snapshot is of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles (“Our Lady of the Angels”) in Cartago, Costa Rica! In January 2006, I spent a month volunteering at a daycare center in the Central Highlands of Costa Rica. Our homebase was in Cartago, a city about 20 minutes outside of the capital, San Jose.  What makes this church so special is that it has a statue of a black Madonna, known as “La Negrita,” which is said to have magical healing powers. Costa Ricans and foreigners alike pilgrimage to the church when they or a loved one is struck by an illness or physical ailment.

Even though I was in Costa Rica to volunteer with children (I was in charge of fourteen newborn to six-year-olds and BOY was that a lot of work!), we also spent some time volunteering during our free time at a home for abandoned elderly people (with varying degrees of health issues and disabilities), and at a home for HIV+/AIDS patients who were abandoned by their families and excommunicated from their villages.

One of the most logistically challenging days of the trip was when we decided to load all the old people into a school bus (most could not walk more than ten steps without assistance), load a wheelchair for each one of them, and then help them out of the bus and into their wheelchairs so we could wheel them all around the church and over to La Negrita, who would hopefully heal them and ease any pains they might have. It was quite emotional for some, who clearly could use a little magic in their lives.  (Hey, at the time, so could I.) Towards the end of the visit, we rolled them to the front of the church, behind Costa Ricans who crawled up the aisle on their knees (this was something I had never seen; imagine an enormous church full of people with their children inching their way down the entire nave on their knees, in prayer… it was a tender thing to watch). One of the older women even got up and started dancing in front of La Negrita. Another old man tried to run away. We caught him.

Of course, I was given the largest of the elderly people to wheel through the church, up and down hills and ramps, across uneven cobble stones and around sharp turns. But when we sat him in front of the altar in a row with ten  wheelchair-bound friends, they all sat silently and still, staring at the cross, praying with the hundreds of other people who were there on this regular morning, hoping for someone or something to ease their pains and bring them peace.

Here are some more photographs of the basilica in Cartago.

Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, Cartago, Costa Rica

Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, Cartago, Costa Rica

Notice the beautiful angel sculptures that give the church a very ephemeral quality… Like the angels have momentarily landed there for you…

Front of Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, Cartago, Costa Rica

Front of Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, Cartago, Costa Rica

Interior of Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, Cartago, Costa Rica

Interior of Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, Cartago, Costa Rica

Balcony of Basilica, Cartago, Costa Rica

Balcony of Basilica, Cartago, Costa Rica

Pendants for healing

Pendants for healing

This is just a small snapshot from a wall full of pendants. If you look closely, you can see that the tiny figures represent different ailments. Every body part was represented in the glass case, and many full-body figures as well, with swelling in the abdomen, or a hand touching where it hurts on the head, or pregnant women, a heart, a finger here, a leg there… all to indicate the location of an ache or pain. Sick or injured people come to the church with the pendant that represents the part of the body for which they seek healing from La Negrita. It’s fascinating to see all the tiny pieces of jewelery, most of which are not much bigger than a coin!

Oldest Church, Costa Rica

Oldest Church, Costa Rica

For the sake of comparison, here is a photograph of the OLDEST CHURCH in COSTA RICA. Located in the beautiful Orosi Valley (see photo below), this church was originally built in 1574, but after a series of earthquakes, it was abandoned. It still stands, but mostly as ruins. And in a completely different way than the great basilica of Cartago, it’s beautiful, and maybe even a little magical.

Orosi Valley, Cartago, Costa Rica

Orosi Valley, Cartago, Costa Rica

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In Love in Lisbon

(That’s what I call the most recent mystery photo.)

Congratulations Dawn R., Geordie M., and Tom H…  Lisbon, Portugal is correct! But good observations everyone else, and thank you all for participating! If you look closely, you can see the Portuguese flag, which was my subtle hint.  The photo was taken during my first hour in Lisbon and was a quick reminder that I was back in Europe.  Coincidentally, it was featured exactly one year ago (I now realize TO THE DAY!) as the “Postcard of the Week” on this website: http://www.gadling.com/2008/07/18/postcard-of-the-week-in-love-in-lisbon/.

Lisbon was an interesting city. I expected a very unique atmosphere, but I constantly felt as if the real Lisbon was being protected from visitors, as if we wouldn’t understand it so why give itself away? I left  the city with more curiosity about it than when I had arrived.  Here is a little reaction to Portugal that I wrote shortly after my one-week trip in March, 2008…

Lisbon laundry

A Sip of Portugal

My impression of Portugal feels somewhat unfinished and raw, like paint that’s slowly drying in a distant room. I am not 100% sure what to make of it because I feel as if I have only been able to skim its surface. Like paint setting, the color has been chosen and the work has been completed; all I can do now is sit and wait for it to dry.

View of Lisbon
View of Lisbon

I think I needed more time to wander the misleadingly muted streets of Lisbon before I could confidently distinguish it from other cities I have seen. Maybe my trip  was a milestone in my world travels. Maybe I can no longer see one country without comparing it to another.

This seems unfair. Especially for Portugal, a country that may appear small compared to its neighbors, but it was from the beaches of this slither of Europe that some of the world’s most famous navigators “discovered” the “New World!” (Easy there, I did use quotation marks…)

A butcher casually carries a large portion of a cow to his butcher shop.
A butcher casually carries a large portion of a cow to his butcher shop.

As I walked from the hotel towards the commercial center of Lisbon in a sleep-deprived daze [note that this is when I came across the Mystery Snapshot lovers], I had trouble seeing the city as its own entity. The closer we got to the water, the more I was reminded of Spain — in particular, Barcelona. I had to keep telling myself I was in LISBON. Maybe I expected it to be rubbed in my face. The city kept unraveling under my feet, and yet I had so much trouble feeling like I was there, nowhere else.

As I walked, I was reminded of Brussels in the way the trees obscured the buildings behind them. I inhaled the sea breeze of Barcelona and noticed similar ironwork on every balcony. And in the open plazas, with their beautiful sculptures that seemed too unkempt to be European, I saw Buenos Aires. At first, I couldn’t see Lisbon without seeing one of those three cities.  But it was only day one; I still had a lot to learn.

Two equally intriguing streets to choose from.
Two equally intriguing streets to choose from.

I probably learned the most about Portugal during meals. (Hey, I’m not complaining!)

Let’s just say that I was never disappointed, and sometimes over-satisfied (unbuttoning-of-the-pants became routine at dinner, usually before even seeing a main course!). Immediately upon sitting down at a table, waiters would float around us in a choreographed dance of deliciousness. One by one, they placed dishes of sautéed mushrooms and cheese (served in its own bowl-shaped shell) beside baskets of homemade breads and dishes with olives and herbs. A circular top was always cut out of the cheese, which melted temptingly inside, and once opened, would reveal a hot and creamy, off-white bath of sheep’s milk cheese whose warm aroma came in varying degrees of sharpness. Bread basket after bread basket, we’d fill up on the heavenly cheese like it was the only food we would be served. Oh, how wrong we were…

Lisbon street
Lisbon street

The interesting thing about eating in Portugal is that we were never warned how many courses they would serve. Each meal delivered a one-two-punch of savory delicacies, from seafood and pasta to duck and pork. Much to my vegetarian younger sister’s dismay, octopus – suction cups and all – was consistently in the mix, which we bravely devoured at every meal, but I think it was only a “when in Portugal…” habit.

Another highlight was the architectural details of the palaces and monasteries we encountered, both in and outside of the city. I’ve never seen such a playfulness in the tiles and facades of regular homes. Some of the most memorable places we saw were Queluz (“what light!”) Palace, which had the traditional Versaille and Topkapi elegance, but then there was the Palacio de Pena, which was much more funky and Gaudi-esque. More on those another time…

Padrao dos Descobrimientos
Padrao dos Descobrimientos

After leaving Lisbon and the metaphorical “paint” has dried, a few characteristics now strike me as undoubtedly Portuguese. Aesthetically, I truly enjoyed the colorful tiles (mostly blue, green and white) that adorned the exteriors of numerous buildings. I found the Portuguese people more friendly and open than the average European I have encountered in other countries. I loved their pride – their constant assertion that THEY are the country from which the rest of the world was “discovered” and explored, that THEY were the ones who first began the tradition of afternoon tea (which was claimed by the British), that THEIR language is as important and significant as any other (and evident in many of the words we use today, even in America). They want to educate the world, set the record straight, and fortify the respect they so strongly believe they deserve. And, let me tell you… if you ever taste a pasteis de Belem, a custard-filled pastry that I HIGHLY recommend, you will have no problem respecting the Portuguese. Mmmm…

View from Catedral Sao Jorge
View from Catedral Sao Jorge

Maybe Portugal has a tiny chip on its shoulder. It reminds me of Cataluña, how they feel they must assert and maintain their language and culture despite the pressure from the rest of the world to make everyone’s life simpler by diluting it with Spanish, French, German or English. Lisbon seemed a little rougher around the edges than some of the more gleaming, proud European cities (like Paris, Rome and London — possibly the three most obvious ones), almost like a child who had been bullied and grew up stronger, covering up its insecurities with thick skin and a veil of resentment.

Portugues tiles, roosters, and colors
Portugues tiles, roosters, and colors

I liked that I wasn’t forced to remember that I was in Portugal every second, that it was a little bit grittier than I expected, and less obvious. Every time I turned around a nondescript dark corner and peeked down another gorgeous, narrow, cobble-stoned street, I was taken aback by the sinister elegance of lanterns shimmering against old stone walls, and homes that never tried to look pretty, but were always beautiful.

Old building, new building; typical juxtaposition of styles
Old building, new building; typical juxtaposition of styles

Lisbon has all the elements of a sophisticated European city, except it’s left the bragging rights out. And just like the delicious, burgundy-colored port wine that melts you helplessly into your heavy wooden chair each night, I found the place to be quite wonderful, and obscurely refreshing.

A rustic lantern hangs from a colonnade near the commercial center of Lisbon.
A rustic lantern hangs from a colonnade near the commercial center of Lisbon.

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Mystery Snapshot Revealed!

Congratulations Tom H., Allison B., and Dawn R.! The mystery photo is of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey. (I’m impressed!)

As an archaeology minor in college, I had quickly become familiar with its name, meaning “Holy Wisdom,” but the true impact of such a famous building doesn’t hit you until you walk through its original doors (some 1,500 years old) and look up. Only then does the color and light of a building so old become significant and real.

One of my favorite moments in Turkey was when I stood dead center on the ground floor of Hagia Sophia and looked straight up at the oculus above. No slide show in an archaeology class can elicit how exciting it is to stand  in a building you once studied in a country far, far away. Obviously, not everything can be learned in a classroom…

Here are a few more photographs of the beautiful Byzantine building which, for almost 1,000 years, was the biggest cathedral in the world!

*NOTE: If you didn’t get a chance to guess the Mystery Snapshot, don’t worry! Wednesdays are now Mystery Snapshot days, so there will be plenty of opportunities to get an honorable mention. Stay-tuned!

Jesus HS

Jesus HS

Interior HS

Interior HS

Blurry Oculus Under Construction

Blurry Oculus Under Construction

Light HS

Light HS

HS Door w Orig Floor

HS Door w Orig Floor

Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia

Side view of Hagia Sophia, with Turkish rugs and lights for sale

Side view of Hagia Sophia, with Turkish rugs and lights for sale

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