Travels with Tavel

That’s right — it’s QUITO, ECUADOR!

Quito, Ecuador. Shannon K.

I think this  description [below] of Quito, provided by Shannon K., perfectly sums up what I anticipate living in Quito to be like (minus a couple unfortunate stomach aches, and probably some very freaky insect or bird encounters). It’s un poquito de Quito, just a tiny snapshot of a visit to the second highest capital in the WORLD.

Plaza in Quito. Shannon K.

For those of you who do not know, I have accepted a job with V!VA Guides and will be moving to Quito, Ecuador at the end of May. It’s EXCITING!! And, yes, a blur of other emotions and thoughts, but I’m totally doing it, and I’m going to give it my best shot. Of course, I planned a couple big trips this Spring (to Italy and Argentina) thinking I was going to be unemployed, which has made my life quite complicated and chaotic lately, but it’s good to be busy! I just wish busy didn’t include repeated trips to One Police Plaza, next to the Brooklyn Bridge, where I have to return in ten days (the day before I go to Italy) to pick up my letter of good conduct for my Visa (fingerprints: check! Getting hardcore hit on by a cop while getting my fingerprints: double CHECK). I can’t stop thinking about Ecuador and the big move these days, but I refuse to pretend I can predict anything about what life will be like in Quito. If I’ve learned anything, it’s that you’ve just got to buckle up and go for the ride when it comes to changes this big. Sometimes you’ve got to go all-in, and see what happens.

Quito Street. Shannon K.

I remember my first day of college. I had been placed in the steep and rocky Mt. Katahdin day-hiking group for my pre-orientation trip (known as “Pre-Os” at the WONDERFUL Bowdoin College, these are the optional trips that we could do to appreciate Maine and bond in small groups the week before college officially began). Before going to Bowdoin, I had lived in the same apartment my entire life and gone to the same school for 12 years: change was not part of my life, and I liked it that way. Going to Bowdoin — in MAINE, of all places — was a HUGE change for me, and I was, admittedly, TERRIFIED!

Sure enough, I did everything I could to prepare. I got every piece of clothing on the suggested packing list, made myself a special ride-to-college mix that would flip my anxiety into excitement, and was ready for all college had to offer — I thought. When I arrived on campus, I headed straight for the sign-in sheet. They said “Great, well have fun backpacking and canoeing!” I said… “Uhhh, what?? I’m on the day-hiking trip…” and nervously showed the nice sophomore volunteer my letter from Bowdoin stating that I was, in fact, on the day-hiking trip to Katahdin. She checked her list, twice, and said, “Oh, well, we have you signed up for the Flagstaff-Bigelow backpacking and canoeing trip and, because of the canoeing, that trip has an even number of people so we kind of need you to do that one or someone won’t have a canoe buddy…” GULP. There I was, prepared as can be for the ONLY thing I could possibly  prepare for during my first week of college, and everything I had so carefully anticipated was being tossed out the window.  Much to my surprise (and my mom’s, who knew my resistance to “change” from a young age), I just took a deep breath, and said,  “OK! Let’s do it…”

The next couple hours consisted of me emptying my entire backpack, getting a new one, rummaging through the Bowdoin Outdoor Club for every piece of equipment from tent parts to cooking parts to waterproof clothes, with my awesome upperclassmen guides, Kazia (who, it turns out, is still awesome) and Jeff (who is also awesome, and is a doctor with the Navy). When I met my group, most were ex-boy scouts, had done several NOLS trips, or worked at Patagonia in their hometown in Montana. There I was, the NYC girl in Maine, who had been signed up for two trips and packed for the WRONG one. I was INCREDIBLY humbled when everyone in my group decided to reach into their own bags and lend me a pair of socks, a quick-drying shirt, some took a pot out of my backpack because my pack was too heavy and didn’t fit properly, and all these strangers (who quickly became friends) did everything they could to make me feel comfortable, welcome, and as prepared as I could be.

In the end, I don’t think there could have been a better way to start my college experience. I had to immediately toss all my pride out the window and take things as they came. As prepared as I thought I was, I had to go with the flow and challenge myself in ways I had never been challenged before. And these people I had JUST met were right there for me from the first moment, ready to help and support me however I needed it. It was a lesson that has stuck with me, and I am taking it with me to Quito.

Now, let’s all learn a little something about one lovely lady’s trip to the city of Quito, which -although I’ve never been- is about to become my home.

In October 2008 I traveled to Ecuador to meet a friend who was starting a three-month tour around South America. Quito is a very walkable city, and the Old Town, with its narrow streets and beautiful architecture, was my favorite neighborhood.

Quito street. Shannon K.

You can’t skip the Basilica del Voto National. If you can manage the hike up the (very) vertical road to the church, then you’ve already won half the battle. And, as an added bonus, good luck beating altitude sickness [Quito sits at an altitude of 9,200 ft].

Basilica, Quito. Shannon K.

The second challenge is reaching the top of the church’s tallest tower, and in order do so, unsuspecting tourists must walk across an old wooden plank just below the cathedral’s ceiling to get to the opposite side, where you climb up a scrawny staircase (think submarine boat stairs) that offers no protection from a fall whatsoever. My fear of heights prevented me from completing the intimidating journey up the final tower, but I have no regrets since my views of the city from the first three viewing points were fantastic.

Cathedral View, Quito. Shannon K.

You’ll need a snack after that adventure (and a stiff drink), and I highly recommend the fruit salad at Fruteria Monserrate. Fruit salad may not sound exciting, but this was one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten!  It consisted of lots of yummy, fresh, tropical fruit and it had this fantastic raspberry sauce drizzled all over it, topped with freshly whipped cream.  It sounds completely unimpressive, I suppose, because it is so simple, and yet it melts in your mouth and tastes so good. I would eat there every day if I could!

Quito, Ecuador. Shannon, K.

We wrapped up the day in New Town where we sampled the national beer in Mariscal Sucre. Ecuador’s national beer sadly lives up to its poor reputation, but when in Rome…

View of Quito. Shannon K.

We eventually learned how to navigate Quito’s bus terminal (harder than it sounds), how to get pick pocketed on a bus (much easier than it sounds), and were reminded of how to say “I’ve been robbed” in Spanish (it’s good for laughs at the police station). A word of caution- taking the bus in Ecuador is not for the faint of heart. I recommend shutting the curtains during the particularly rough patches and saying a prayer to the travel gods.

Montana View from Bus. Shannon K.

It is difficult to believe the locals when they tell you that their mountain roads (with hairpin turns) are safe, especially after you’ve passed an identical bus hanging perilously off the side of a 10,000+ ft cliff. That being said, and as long as you don’t look down, you’ll be amazed by the beautiful countryside.

City and Countryside, Quito. Shannon K.

Memories of the stressful bus rides will melt away once you get to the rainforest (that or you’ll quickly repress them).

Hammocks in the Amazon. Shannon K.

Tena, Ecuador. Shannon K.

We hiked, swam in lagoons, climbed waterfalls, learned about the wildlife, and navigated river rapids. We also learned that jungle bats don’t take kindly to travelers climbing through their cave.

Bird of Paradise flower. Rainforest, Ecuador. Shannon K.

The rainforests are definitely worth the harrowing bus ride- so make sure not to miss them! ENJOY ECUADOR, TAVEL!

Quito. Shannon K.

NOTE: All the photographs in this entry were provided by Shannon K. THANK YOU SHANNON! Cannot wait to spend a few weeks with this girl in Argentina 🙂

During the past couple of weeks, I’ve had one particular South American city on my mind…

This is going to be the easiest Mystery Snapshot yet, but I couldn’t resist. It comes to us from the lovely Shannon K., who I met (and with whom I spent most of my time) while studying abroad in Barcelona. She is from Texas, so don’t mess with her.

Now tell me, what South American city is this? In addition to identifying it, I am also looking for any and all advice, regarding this city and country. If you can tell me where this shot comes from, if you’ve been there, and/or if you know something about the place, please share your thoughts and wisdom as a comment below. I’ll take any info/insight I can get!

City High. Shannon K.

Good guessin’. You were all on the right track with the whole color thing, but the blue-looking mountains are actually the White Mountains of good ol’ New Hampshire! Tom H. tells us more about the photograph and his experience in a funny, real-time style entry. Enjoy:

This photo proves that you don’t need to go too far afield to travel. I took these photos while hiking the Presidential Traverse in New Hampshire’s White Mountains. The Dolly Copp campground, where the hike started, is just 175 miles from Boston.

The Presidential Traverse is a hike that hits the summits of Mts. Madison, Adams, Jefferson, Washington, Monroe, Eisenhower, Pierce, and Jackson. My co-workers who organized the hike decided to add Clay, Franklin, and Webster as well (you know, ’cause they’re on the way). It’s been a struggle to figure out how best to share what was a pretty grueling experience for me. In the end I’ve decided to steal Bill Simmons’ running diary style…

2:00 AM – Wake up. Eat granola bar. Feel like death.

2:50 AM – Arrive at Dolly Copp campground in Gorham, NH. I still don’t fully realize what I’m in for. Want to be excited, but it’s still too early.

Tom H (right) and friends. Dolly Copp, NH.

3:00 AM – Start hiking. Too dark to see, using headlamps. The blood starts flowing. I’m beginning to feel awake.

5:00 AM – Missed a turn back there. We’re now lost in the pre-dawn darkness. Not a good way to start.

5:50 AM – Mt. Madison summit. One down, ten to go. Cold, windy, and slippery. Tough combo.

Mt. Madison. White Mountains, NH.

6:00 AM – Madison Spring Hut. The guests there were just starting to wake up. They seemed confused as to how we got there, as we weren’t there for dinner the night before. I too, was starting to wonder what I was doing there. Then we explained our story. People were impressed. I started to feel better.

Tom H (left) and friends. Mt. Washington summit.

Tom H. on Mt. Monroe, with Mt. Washington in distance.

Tom H. and friends on Mt. Eisenhower with Mt. Washington farther in the distance.

Mt. Webster, with Mt. Washington very far in the distance.

This Google Map shows all the peaks.

Let me start you off with two Mystery Snapshots before I completely derail you with my inner musings…

This week’s snapshots are brought to us by my fellow traveler and friend, Missy! You may have noticed her name, as she is pretty much a Mystery Snapshot all-star, but now is her chance to be on the other side of the game…

Can you figure out where in the world this is? Start with the country. If you can get any more specific than that, power to you! Both photographs come from the same place, and there is a very small clue in the first shot that reveals the answer. Look carefully. Or, you can just use your knowledge of architecture and local flora to think this one through…

Missy 1

Missy 2

Now for my musings on the morning of an odd day at the end of a rough month…

Today was supposed to be my last day of official employment. It was supposed to be the very last day I walked into my office, sat at my desk, turned on my computer, went through my emails, and did my assigned duties after over three years at my job. But then it started snowing.

As life (my life) would have it, the three year build-up ends without a climax. There goes my farewell lunch, my goodbye party, my moment…  Ironic,  yes, but it’s ok. I might not be able to put a pretty little bow on this experience, but I know it’s all wrapped up and complete, goodbye party or not (and yes, it will be rescheduled).

In fact, this day actually captures how the past month has felt. A couple things in my life are lacking closure right now, and closure is very important to me. I need to know something is finished so that I can put it away in a specific Container Store drawer, preferably with a label that says something like “ex-job” or “ex-boyfriend” or “embarrassing moment.” That way I know exactly where I can find an experience during moments of nostalgia, weakness, or inspiration, and I can reflect on what the experience meant to me, and how I learned from it. If nothing else, completion allows for new beginnings; simply knowing something is done makes it easier to start something new. Right?

It’s kind of like reading a book. Sure, sometimes I overlap, but it never feels right. I need to read the last page, , think about it, let it soak in, and only THEN can I even contemplate the next one.  (You can’t just read the first page of a new book IMMEDIATELY after you’ve read the last page of another — there’s gotta be some space and time in between!)

OK, I’ve obviously stopped talking about my job and started talking about.. uh… OTHER things… Time to thrust this entry back to TRAVEL!

What I love about trips is that there is usually a start date and an end date: an adventure can fit between the bookends of two flights. No matter what happens in between, you know that the experience will fit nicely into one Facebook photo album, or a long email to your friends and family, and it will forever be that trip to Ecuador or that trip to New Orleans when something HAPPENED. (There are two past tenses in Spanish — the preterite and the imperfect, the first one describes things in the past that happened with a definite ending, “I lived in Spain for four months,” while the other describes something indefinite, aptly called the “imperfect,” that doesn’t have a defined ending, ie: “I used to live in Spain.) So what do you do when that second bookend is removed? Experiences bleed together, and it’s harder to wrap our heads around what each one means. It is, just like the Spanish tense, imperfect.

Today I am not at my last day of work. I have a Snow Day and, for now, I’m home. I do not get to celebrate the end of over three years at my little desk with my little to-do list like I thought I would, but I know it’s over. And with or without closure, perfect or imperfect, it feels right. As always, life doesn’t stick to my plans. Life is not perfect. But maybe that’s what’s so great about it? What trip ever went exactly how you expected? What trip wasn’t better when it veered off-course?

I’ll tell you this much: none of the stories worth writing about ever went according to plan. None of them were perfect.

So bring it on, snow.

So far, nobody’s gotten yesterday’s Mystery Snapshot. That’s ok, but I want more guesses! So here is a confidence-boosting (I hope) HINT:

Meghan G 1b

Meghan G 1

Now do you think you can guess the mountain and/or where it is??

And, uhhh, can we pause to just say WOW! Look at this place: it’s AMAZING.

Today, my official one-week countdown to “living the dream” begins.

On Friday, February 26, I will walk out of the office where I have spent the last three years daydreaming about my next adventure, and I will go LIVE it! I have the feeling it’s going to feel like…

THIS:

From Meghan G.

Yes, I’d be the person with the red shirt looking up, thinking: wow, this is completely intimidating but beautiful. I’ve got to get closer…

This week, I have chosen a Mystery Snapshot that represents the feeling of GOING FOR IT, whatever that “it” might be. I’m leaving my job to pursue my (inconvenient and impractical) passion (can ya guess what it might be from this blog?) during a merciless economic recession, but a girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do. I’m going to face plenty of speed bumps, but I know I’ll never regret the decision to give my little dreams a chance.

This photograph was provided by my old roommate, Meghan (thanks MG!). I chose it this week because I think it captures the exhilaration of facing a new challenge. Some of you might recognize it instantly. Maybe some of you have even been there (I = JEALOUS). Whatever information you’ve got, do share. Tell me WHAT you see (what’s the name of the big white thing with snow on it?), WHERE it is (country/region/mountain range), and any fun facts you might know about it. If it brings up any other thoughts, share those too!

Meghan, I still cannot believe you got to stand there and take this photo. Awe.

I came across this article about “Where to find romance in the world” this morning. It’s from Lonely Planet, and the results of their survey match up pretty accurately with what all of you said. Fun! But I’ve really got to start getting my ideas out there sooner. (For example, I wanted to do a 36 hrs in Morningside Heights and, go figure, a certain Sarah Maslin Fir got there first! Now I have to wait at least a YEAR to cover the same ‘hood! I’m learning… This city is just so quick on its feet!)

According to Lonely Planet readers, ITALY is the single most romantic country in the world. I mean, it’s hard to disagree. I’ve been to Florence, Venice and Rome and, yes, they are pretty damn romantic, but perhaps too in-your-face romantic for me. I’m a big fan of subtlety and accidental romance… Romance that’s just for one person (me!), not for every tourist who happens upon a certain fountain or view. Of course, some things are just irresistibly romantic — and I get that. Nevertheless, I’m excited to head BACK to Rome at the end of March, perhaps as “research” to follow up on this theory, if not to indulge in many forms of pasta. I’m excited that the US and Argentina both made it on the map! Check out the article HERE. Notice the heart graphic…

I want to leave you with a quote from Carrie Bradshaw (I know I know, maybe outdated, maybe too girly, but I love it and it matches up with this topic!):

“I’m looking for love. Real love. Ridiculous, inconvenient, consuming, can’t-live-without-each-other love. And I don’t think that love is here, in this expensive suite, in this lovely hotel…in Paris”

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: while some places (ah, Paris…) are more romantic than others (uh, prison?), love and romance work in mysterious ways. Life will never be as simple as “Paris” or “Italy,” but at least we now know where to start…

When it comes to romance, travel can be the inspiration or the backdrop. Going somewhere far away can set the mood and create the perfect atmosphere, or it can provide the setting that triggers new feelings and experiences. Being surrounded by the exotic can make us more attune to detail; suddenly we notice the smell of foreign flowers and burning sugar cane, or we hear the distinct beat of music pulsing nearby that transports us out of our routines. When we travel, our senses become hyperactive and we can smell, see, feel, and take in more. We’re very adaptable, so when we get used to certain sensations, we notice them less (can you describe the smell of your own apartment? Tough, huh? But it is one of the first and most overwhelming things I notice every time I walk into someone else’s place). With such a heightened awareness of nuances, it’s no wonder that travel can instigate and/or perpetuate many romances…

(Yep, I’m guilty as charged 🙂 )

Thank you for sharing what you consider the most romantic places in the world. Your responses are a reminder that, while travel can take us to incredibly romantic places, sometimes those spots are right in our proverbial “backyards.”

Here is the contributor-created list:

From Emily P: Outside of Auckland, in Piha, NZ. Extremely beautiful but has some of the world's most dangerous surf breaks.

From Sarah Z who writes, “I am sticking to the most romantic spots I have been, in no particular order.”

1-Paris, France (though this is #1!)
2-Cinque Terre, Italy
3-Punta Cana, Dominican Republic
4-Venice, Italy
5-Vence, France

From Julie N:

“Tavel, I would like to suggest the Sacre Coeur in Paris. Its basilica sits atop the city and looks out on all the beautiful rooftops of Paris. When I went there when I was 16, I thought to myself, “When I meet the man I am going to marry, I will bring him here. And, if he cannot see the beauty here, then he won’t be able to see beauty anywhere and I won’t marry him.”

From Ben R:

“The Alhambra in Grenada Spain. Look it up. Love it.”

From Dawn R., who writes “I haven’t found my romantic place yet…..but I have some ideas where I’ll find it:
– Provence
– Tuscany
– Australia
– Borneo, Dominica, or somewhere with a beach, a sailboat, and not many other people. It doesn’t matter which corner of the world!

“I’ve seen Paris with friends, so it hasn’t opened up its romantic side to me, but it IS stunningly beautiful–and Parisians are really good at romance. Can’t discount the city of love! I’d go back to Sacre Coeur with someone special to give it a chance in a heartbeat.”

From Susana:

Venice!

From Emily P: Sunset Point, New Zealand. We didn't even get to experience one of it's best sunsets, but it was still beautiful.

From Geordie:

“The top of Sacre Coeur is certainly a gorgeous spot (it’s featured prominently in Amelie actually) and Paris (the architecture, the public parks, the bridges) is a wonderfully romantic place, if a little bit tainted now by having become a cliche. Personally, I’m a real sucker for the beach and I’ll nominate something a little closer to home and with some personal resonance: Newport, Rhode Island’s Second Beach, mid August, at sunset, just as the day is beginning to cool off.”

From Noah:

“Maine Coast, sunset, preferably on the rocks and not a beach. Giant Steps on Bailey Island comes to mind. Watching the sunset and the waves crashing on the rocks while being with someone you love = amazing.”

From Michael R.:

“Haas Promenade, Jerusalem, Israel, at Sunset. And not just because I proposed to my fiancé there. Really.”

From Raechel H.:

“Rome. Most amazing city on earth. It doesn’t really get more romantic than sitting at a cafe in front of the Pantheon and watching the crowds go by.”

From Jackie L: Charleston, South Carolina

I’m sure there are many places to add to the list, so feel free to contribute in comment form any time.

I had to think for a little about what makes a place romantic to me. I’ve felt romance everywhere from Spain to Argentina to St. Maarten to right here in NYC. But there have definitely been a few places that have affected me more than others. Here are only three places from my VERY long list:

– Girona, Spain. Located in Catalonia, along the Costa Brava and just south of France, this medieval city completely captivated me. I visited it for a long weekend with my study abroad group while I was living in Barcelona and it just cut right through me, and that is when I realized I needed to make traveling part of my life.

Walking through Girona, Spain.

At night, the cobblestone streets are lit up only by starlight and iron lanterns that hang on the high stone walls. A warm savory-combined-with-sweet smell wafts between gelato shops and tapas bars. Flowers and vines wrap their way around the small balconies of ancient-looking homes, and you find yourself lost in time.

Strolling with friends through Girona, Spain.

I remember one evening, just after the sun had set, I went for a long walk with three of my best friends (shout out to Lisa, Shannon, and Ronnie!). After so many beautiful moments in these tight and narrow stone walkways, we came across an opening. Three tiny sidewalks converged into what was sort of a cobblestone patio, the floor uneven like rolling water. Several tiny tables had been set up, visible only through the shaking light of candles and lanterns, and a man with wavy brown hair played flamenco guitar in a corner. It was a creperie. There was nothing left to do except pull up a seat, order some crepes, and try our very hardest to take in every detail of a moment which, for the rest of our lives, would probably seem too romantic to have been real.

– Barbados. This is just a honeymoon waiting to happen! When I got there, granted I was a teenager on a family vacation, I was instantly entranced by the smell of plumeria and then stunned by the combination of green grasses and tress against a rich blue ocean; a one-two-punch of tropical perfection. It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been, but — as a reminder that life isn’t perfect — I ended up with the WORST sunburn of my life! That’s what I get for not wearing ANY sunscreen (thanks mom and dad). Wish I had digital photos to share… (Of Barbados, not my sunburn!)

– Central Park, New York City. Ok ok, so I know this isn’t what you were hoping to hear. But I cannot deny the perfection that is Central Park during the spring and early summer, when cherry blossom and magnolia trees cover the ground with petals, and people are smiling, playing, running, biking, sipping wine, laughing, sunbathing, reading, falling in love…  Walking through the park on a warm evening is bliss. There is nowhere else in the world I’d rather be. Nowhere.

Sunlight through a cherry blossom branch. Central Park, NYC.

The list goes on and on (Taxco, Mexico… a thunderstorm – anywhere… Greenport, Long Island – one of my favorite places in the entire world, which deserves it’s own entry). But, in the end, I think we can all agree that sometimes the geographical “where” is not where romance comes from. The single most romantic and wonderful place in the universe has got to be in the right person’s arms (ahhh, yes, I got cheesy, but I stand by this!). And quite frankly, as long as I’m there, anywhere in the world would do.

Thank you everyone for participating. Feel free to add on to the list now.