Category Archives: Uncategorized

February 6, 2010 · 9:41 am

Gone to Dogon Country

A lot of people guessed Africa (on and off the blog). You are all CORRECT! I guess Ursula is just the Travels with Tavel champion, huh? She guessed it: Geordie’s photograph is of the thatched huts of Dogon Country, Mali.

Dogon Huts, Mali.

In Geordie’s explanation below, he describes how this is a very popular tourist destination in Western Africa. Well, admittedly, I had only vaguely heard of Dogon Country and would have been stumped if I had to guess the shot. I clearly need to make a very big trip to Africa. When I do go, these are my top country picks at the moment: Morocco, Egypt, Tanzania, and Kenya. If I could make it to the World Cup in South Africa, I would probably flip out. I’m still hopeful that — by some elaborate and yet-to-be-determined-miracle — I will make it there, but let’s just say I’m not holding my breath. I do have a feeling that this might be the year I first set foot in Africa though… We shall see! Inch allah, right Geordie?

Anyway, here is Geordie’s Mystery Snapshot explanation. And no, I had NOTHING to do with the shout outs! He’s a LEGIT fan! 🙂

Geordie in Mali.

“First off, it’s great to be featured in Travels with Tavel after reading it for so many months! Many thanks to Tavel for using my picture, and for giving me this opportunity to talk about my experiences.

“This picture comes from a trip I took to Dogon Country, which is a region in Mali. It is one of the top tourist destinations in West Africa, along with Timbutku, which I also visited, though in all honesty I found Dogon Country much more interesting. The most distinctive feature of Dogon Country is what you see in the picture: pointed roofed huts that were built on hillsides, part of a defense strategy used by the Dogon people when they refused to convert to Islam over a thousand years ago.

Dogon Country huts, Mali.

“The Dogon have managed to preserve their distinctive culture and indigenous traditions on a remarkably large scale (the current population is estimated at between 400,000-800,000), and a trip through Dogon Country really does feel like a trip back in time. Climbing the hills amongst the mud huts with their thatched roofs, we saw no signs of modern amenities. No power lines, no running water, save for perhaps a pump at the base of the hill.

Dogon County view, Mali.

“Village elders invited us into the Togu Na, a sort of town hall with a ceiling built purposely low to prevent people from standing up (and maybe starting a fight) if discussion’s became heated. There was also the ‘house for menstruating women,’ where women were required to go during their periods, though it was unclear if they were still being used.

Dogon huts, Mali.

“Viewing the villages from afar was also spectacular. From a distance, the buildings would blend seamlessly into the hillsides, and only if you stared closely, could you make out the hundreds of tiny houses.

Dogon huts in the distance, Mali.

“I was lucky enough to spend my junior year abroad in Africa (studying in Senegal, adjacent to Mali) and have been anxious to go back ever since. I found the people friendly and welcoming, and after some initial jitters, I felt perfectly safe for my entire stay. Even if you can’t make it to an out-of-the-way place like Dogon Country, experiencing the barely organized chaos of an African city is an equally memorable experience.

Geordie on a camel in Africa.

“Thanks again, Tavel, for running my photo, and giving me this chance to talk about my travels. And definitely keep reading T w. T, because, and I say this totally objectively, things are just getting started. As the Senegalese would say “Ba Beneen yoon, inch allah” (Until next time, God Willing).”

*NOTE: All the photos in this entry were taken or provided by Geordie MacLeod.

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January 30, 2010 · 10:42 am

Puente del Inca

Good guesses! I knew I would probably stump people with this one, but it’s such a cool place I just had to share the shot.

Puente del Inca. Argentina.

The photograph is actually of Puente del Inca (“bridge of the Incas”), a bridge naturally formed, as Ben suggested, above some hot springs, high in the Andes of Argentina. The now rusty-mustard colored building you see, whose color can be attributed to years of sulfur deposits from the hot springs, is the remains of a luxury hotel that was built into this unique location.

Hot Spring. Puente del Inca, Argentina.

Me sampling an old thermal bath. Puente del Inca, Argentina.

Each room had its own thermal bath, for only the most elite travelers to enjoy. A nearby train station was once the last stop in Argentina along the Ferrocarril Transandino (Transandine, or “Trans-Andes,” Railroad), which was originally opened in 1910 (it was the first railroad to connect the Atlantic and Pacific coasts) but has been out of service since 1984.

As you can see, much of the surrounding buildings were destroyed by an avalanche of falling rocks and glacial floods in 1965. But exactly one structure was spared: the church.

Puente del Inca Church, Argentina.

Puente del Inca ruins. Argentina.

In fact, it survived virtually unscathed. Not only were the thermal waters of Puente del Inca believed to have magical healing powers (read about the Inca legend here), but after the avalanche destroyed the entire village, leaving only the church standing (seen in the background of the Mystery Snapshot), people believed this had to be a miracle. Of course, this only encouraged travelers (and now tourists) to trek to this very special place, and the inevitable circus of tour guides and souvenirs stands now surround it.

Alta Montana Circuit, Argentina.

Alta Montana Circuit. Argentina.

Puente del Inca is located very near to the border between Argentina and Chile in the Mendoza Province. I took these photographs in January — the dead of summer. During the winter, the bridge is dripping with ice, while hot springs flow deep inside. That interaction between ice and heat is believed to have contributed to the unique formation of the bridge. Nearby Aconcagua is a popular hike for serious climbers, as it is the highest mountain in the Andes (and of the Americas!).

Top of Aconcagua. Argentina.

Argentine side, Alta Montana.

If you find yourself in Mendoza, Argentina, take a break from all the malbec wine tasting (ok – only a very brief one!) to get into the nearby Andes, where you can trek the Alta Montaña circuit (at the border of Argentina and Chile, you’ll be at an altitude of 4,000m/13,120ft — so ascend slowly and carefully — most do make the trip in a tour bus), and walk the Inca Trail, or go horseback riding (“cabalgatas”) with some gauchos, followed by a traditional asado, in the lower hills. Most hostels have sign up boards to do any and all of these activities, and hotels or tourism companies will definitely hook you up.

Gaucho on horseback, overlooking the city of Mendoza, Argentina.

Random fact: the movie “Seven Years in Tibet” was actually filmed here, a couple thousand feet above Puente del Inca — NOT in Tibet! Pretty cool, eh? Ahh, the random offerings of Argentina just never stop… 🙂

Alta Montana, at 4,000m, w/ friends Kerry and Molly in 2005. It was COLD and WINDY!

Rooftop Activity

Happy Mystery Snapshot Day!

Keep the photographs and contributions comin’. I have thoroughly enjoyed the participation of every single contributor, so thank you. We’ve got a few photos and travel stories on deck, but I’m always looking for more. I’m going to start introducing more discussions, news items, random travel tips and maybe even a couple reviews (as can you). Feel free to make suggestions and tell me what YOU’D like to see on T w/ T. Send any and all ideas to: travelswithtavel@gmail.com.

Today, I’m providing us with the Mystery Snapshot, just like the good ol’ days…

Can you tell me where this is? (Country/region/province), what this is (it kind of looks like…?!?), and/or why this is…? There’s a lot going on geologically, for starters. Any insight you can come up with — even if it’s a complete guess — is worth a comment.

Rooftop Activity

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January 19, 2010 · 10:59 pm

Chica-go? Chica-WENT!

I’m back from a very quick trip to Chicago and, believe it or not (I don’t), it was my first! I am barely allowed to have an opinion, but since I have a blog… I WILL! (And please share your opinions, too.)

A bunch of people have asked me what I thought of the city. Let me preface this by saying I have a LOT more to see and learn! But we’re all entitled to first impressions, right? (As long as we’re willing to be wrong…)

I will say that, despite the rumored cold (it was surprisingly comfortable for a January weekend while I was there, probably no colder than 20 degrees), despite the generous dose of grey (I did have one beautiful day of misty sunshine!), and despite the sloppy leftovers of post-holiday snow patches on the sidewalk, people just seem to love this place. I can understand why.

This is clearly a proud city, but it’s not obnoxious-proud like Boston (sorry guys), or stuck-up-proud like New York (I still love you NY!), or chip-on-its-shoulder proud like Philly (eek… this is going to bite me back)… [And for the record, I really think Boston, NYC and Philly are awesome places.] It’s just hey – let’s bundle up, go eat, watch a Cubs game, and grab some beers-proud. Maybe I haven’t spent enough time in the Midwest [fact] to appreciate that sort of simple, friendly charm (yes, sometimes friendly cities confuse me a little) but Chicago is as tough as it is charming. Kind of how I like my men. (Umm…) It’s got the boxy build of a warehouse-meets-high-rise, yet it’s comfortable, modern, breathable and fresh.

Chicago Architecture

Every city has its tough days and its glory days, but Chicago seems to focus mostly on what to eat today. I like that it’s got a no-nonsense vibe. Much to my delight, it is a foodie city. For the most part, it seems to have fun with grub. People go out to eat so that they can enjoy a place, not pick it apart. The food-culture is unpretentious yet informed, familiar yet refreshing. Even with such an amazing selection of restaurants and bars, residents find themselves settling on a couple local favorites where, before they know it, the owner is showing them photographs from her freaky 80’s prom-hair days, and making fun of their dates while a nearby group of diners looks on and laughs.

I’m under the impression that Chicago is also a beer city, and a coffee city, and a sporty city, and, well, a happy city… Yep, pretty much my kind of city, except for the whole cold thing. But the cold is bearable thanks to the awesome people, who seem constantly upbeat and pleased with Chicago despite the low temperatures. I picked up on their strategy: never lose sight of summer, no matter how far away it might be.

Chicago View

Every Chicagoan asked me how I liked their city (even if I had been there less than a day). After telling each person my positive first-impressions, I was consistently and continuously reminded of one thing: that I absolutely HAD to see Chicago in the summer time. (Is this a trick?!) These poor people don’t even realize that summer only lasts three months, and that’s what’s so cute about them — it’s all they need!

Ahh, I love their optimism. Those summers must be pretty awesome if it gets them through the other 75% of the year! Maybe the winters aren’t that bad after all…

For the foodie culture, the just-beautiful-enough streets, the variety (be it food, beer, ways to pass a Saturday afternoon), the blending of architectural styles, the pedestrian-friendliness, the positivity, the cleanliness-mixed-with-Brooklyn-esque-grunge, and sure, for the constant availability of cabs… I give Chicago two thumbs up.

Yep, even during the winter.

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January 13, 2010 · 8:18 am

Mysterious Montana

*Before revealing the last Mystery Snapshot, I feel obliged to mention the earthquake that hit Haiti yesterday evening. While in the Dominican Republic a month ago, my friend and I hoped to cross the border into Haiti for a day trip to learn more about the country first-hand. We considered riding motorbikes to Port-au-Prince until we found out it was a 7+ hr ride (and I had only 3 full days on the island). We were also strongly discouraged by locals because of Haiti’s crime and poverty. Nevertheless, we encountered many Haitians looking for opportunities to work in the DR, where life is better. This isn’t news to anyone, but Haiti is a struggling nation that seriously needs help right now. This earthquake has devastated a country that was already in pieces. How to help: http://www.oxfamamerica.org and http://www.redcross.org.

Now, onto the Mystery Snapshot revelation…

Mountains of Montana

As Sarah Z. said in her comment, “Montana? Total guess, but I have always dreamed of going there, and in my mind that’s exactly what it looks like.” Congratulations, you were right on! When I think of Montana, I’ve always imagined exactly what this photograph captured: beautiful mountains and horses. I absolutely must make a trip to this lovely state…

Montana on Horseback

Yes, Sarah Z., last week’s mystery snapshot came from the beautiful montañas of Montana! (I’m sure you’ve figured this out by now, but the word Montana comes from the Spanish word for mountain…Just a little tidbit.) Huck and ThatGuy, you were both REAL close! Everyone else, great guesses.

Montana Horse

Schuyler explains:

“The picture was taken this past summer (2009) while wrangling some of my family’s horses off of a mountain. We use it to graze the horses from our camp in White River, in the Bob Marshall Wilderness in Montana. Every night we turn the horses loose so they can graze. In the morning we get up early, ride up this mountain (Haystack Mountain) and herd them back to camp.

On this particular morning they were almost at the top. The mountains in the distance are part of the Flathead Alps, also where my family’s outfit does hunting during the fall.”

Schuyler Dudley in Beargrass

To learn more about how you can end up on a horse in the ridiculously beautiful mountains of Montana, or to learn more about the area and what you can do there, check out Schuyler’s family’s outfitting club, Mills Wilderness Adventures of Montana.

Bighorn Sheep on Haystack Mountain

* NOTE: All the photographs in this entry were taken by the wonderful Schuyler Dudley, my lightweight rowing buddy and favorite cowgirl from college. She’s a TRUE Montanan. Thank you Schuyscraper!!

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January 5, 2010 · 8:37 am

Beisbol in the DR

This was an interesting one! I loved your thoughts. I’ve gotta give my congratulations to Geordie, who — even though his final guess was incorrect — noticed that perhaps the stick held by the boy in last week’s Mystery Snapshot was a makeshift baseball bat used by a child in the Dominican Republic…

Most people, including myself, believed the photograph was of somewhere in Africa. That is partially why I wanted to use it. It is actually from Lisa Andracke’s trip to the Dominican Republic, and shows a little boy who had just finished a game of baseball in the outskirts of Santo Domingo. After my previous images from a different region of the Dominican Republic, I thought I could trick you all by showing you another side of the country. One thing people don’t realize about the D.R. is that it’s not all sandy beaches and palm trees; there are actually several microclimates on the island — humid, dry, tropical jungle, savanna, and forest.

Here, Lisa, who was working on a documentary about baseball at the time, explains the photograph:

“In the first week of February, 2008, we awoke before dawn with the excitement of a new day. The color and texture of the sunshine just after it rises and immediately after it dips above the horizon is beautiful — golden, streaking, dramatic and glamorous. Glamorous like Hollywood wants to be, yet peaceful.

“We filmed people sweeping packed dirt, which was also their porch. We filmed everything from landscapes to people riding a packed bus (with no side doors) to work. We drove along with our guide, not sure of what we’d find.

“We spotted an impromptu baseball game, boys against girls. One girl wore a plastic pink shower cap to keep her hair out of her face she stepped up to bat. The boys stood ready in the outfield — each one partially clothed and barefoot. You could hear the crack of the ‘bat’ and the accompanying cheers and shouts that got everyone excited. I can’t be sure who won that day but the girls sure had a fire in their eyes.

“The photograph was taken after the game ended and the children dispersed. This boy walked away with his baseball bat — a stick. One of the reasons I chose to push the shutter was because the grass, the tree, and the color of the sky reminded me of Africa. But we were in the in outskirts of Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic.”

*NOTE: All the photographs in this posting were taken by Lisa Andracke.

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December 27, 2009 · 12:48 pm

Cabbin’ It In Cabarete

I had been to the Dominican Republic once before, but back then I was still learning how to really be in a new place. I was a senior in high school on spring break and went with five of my best girlfriends to a large all-inclusive resort called the Barcelo Bavaro Beach Resort in Punta Cana. Unfortunately, as became a trend for me during tropical vacations, we were accompanied by a hurricane, which prevented us from touching the ocean and turned our five-day trip into one soggy blur of tropical drinks and thunder. But of course, we made the most of it and came back with plenty of stories too inappropriate to share in a blog almost ten years later.

This time (a few weeks ago), I was traveling to the Dominican Republic under totally different circumstances. Within a few hours of being invited by my old roommate to Cabarete, where she would be spending the last week of a five-month ’round-the-world trip alone kite surfing, I had purchased flights. Six days later, I was cabbing it to the airport in the heavy grey light of East Coast winter. Less than four airborne hours later I was in the golden sunshine of Puerto Plata’s eternal summer, in search of a cab to complete the journey.

In just four hours, you can go from the dead of winter to the dead of summer. Four hours — that’s NOTHING! (Remind me why I don’t do this more often?!) I got in the cab sweating bullets from the quick transition, took off my inappropriately warm socks, stuffed my fleece into a bag, and savored the soft air on my exposed toes… Ahhhh, instant BLISS.

We sped down what felt like the only highway in town — a rough highway-meets-dirt-road full of scattered rocks, patches of dirt, and potholes. A colonnade of palm trees shaded the journey as motorbikes buzzed around the cab like bees, taking uniformed children to school and husbands/wives/boyfriends/girlfriends to work. Some had three or four people stacked behind the driver, with not a helmet in sight. Little did I know, this would be how I headed to dinner later on. Motoconchos or guaguas, as they are called, line up along the streets waiting to give people a cheap lift into town. For my first night in Cabarete, Meghan and I decided to head into the main section of town for dinner. The second we exited the hotel, two or three Dominican guys were cutting across the road on worn-down motorbikes asking if we wanted a ride. I looked at Meghan, who seemed completely unfazed, and before I knew it, I had my arms and legs wrapped around a sweaty Dominican man, with Meghan holding on behind me. We zipped in the darkness around the rugged roads, along 10-ft drops, swerving between drunk drivers in what becomes a free-for-all of motorbikes and cars. I’m not gonna lie… I was NERVOUS! But, I guess, when in Rome…

I chatted with the cab driver, something I always do as a first step transitioning from English to Spanish-mode in a Spanish-speaking country. I always find that they are very excited to talk about how wonderful their country is, and I’ll talk about pretty much anything as long as it’s in Spanish. With the windows rolled down and merengue swirling around me with the breeze, I let the Dominican Republic take over. That is the moment I look forward to every trip, the moment when an uncontrollable smile drips off my face like honey and my heart flutters in disbelief that so many beautiful things and places are just a few clicks (more than a few dollars) and a plane ride away…

Several minutes into the ride, Spanish was rolling off my tongue with less effort. I sat in the rickety cab, beaming as I savored the flashes of blue ocean that appeared between palm trees on this perfectly Dominican day.

I hadn’t even touched the sand yet, but from the front seat of that first cab ride, I was already long gone in the waves of Cabarete…

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December 16, 2009 · 8:12 am

2010 Travel Wish List

With the end of 2009 approaching, I would like all of you to take a moment and think about your travel hopes and dreams for 2010. For me, 2009 started in the Caribbean (St. Maarten) and ended in the Caribbean (Dominican Republic). But what a journey it was in between! And I don’t just mean geographically…

This week, I’d like all of you to share your travel wish list for 2010. It can be as many things as you’d like. Tell us where you want to go, why you want to go there, what you want to check off the bucket list, if you have any particular travel goals or dream destinations, if there is a certain activity you want to participate in (a mountain to climb, a race to win, a carnival to see), and then… tell us your FAVORITE trip or travel moment of 2009.

One of my recurring travel goals (echem, fantasies) is to go horseback riding on the beach any and every chance I get. One week ago today, that is exactly what I did on a pristine beach in the Dominican Republic. I cannot explain why, but when I am galloping down an empty beach in another country, on a horse that is going as fast as I can possibly make it, I know that I am living my dream; I am absolutely, purely HAPPY. Isn’t that what it’s all about?

CHEERS, to living the dream in 2010.

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December 4, 2009 · 9:04 am

Berlin Art

Great guesses, people! I loved these responses: “That’s what it looks like behind my fridge…Has to be CA” (Ursula), “…looking through floor grates at a woman practicing flamenco” (Missy), “My guess is Europe otherwise I’m stymied”(Geordie), “The Red Light District in Amsterdam” (Susana), and “It looks like a woman being swallowed up or crushed by chords…Yet she’s smiling” (Jessi). Sometimes it’s interesting to just throw a very abstract image out there and leave it up to the viewer to make something out of it (or not). You all saw a different story. Isn’t that what art is all about? Well, that’s a whole other discussion entirely…

I’m not going to congratulate specific people but rather thank all of you who took a stab at this one. Here is Marie’s explanation of the photograph:

“This is a photo taken in Berlin this past May. It was at a guerilla art event in an abandoned bathhouse’s basement. There were galleries and exhibits all through this vast cavernous space. In one alcove was a grated floor. Below was this woman dressed up as part of the pipes. She was writhing on the floor while people standing on the grate looked down and watched her performance. She actually has gallery representation (although nothing tangible to sell). No one will ever guess. You had to be there.”

Thank you to Marie for sharing this unique shot and contributing to Travels with Tavel! I’m looking for more mystery snapshot contributors so pass yours along!

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December 2, 2009 · 8:42 am